Mount Everest has lost much lustre since travel companies began providing pro guides to rig the ropes and charging $50,000 (about Rs20.2 lakh) for their services.
With China building a road through the Tibet plateau to the north side of the Everest Base Camp, used by climbers such as George Mallory, Andrew Irvine, Noel Odell and Eric Shipton in the early 20th century, serious mountaineers and trekkers will now focus on the south side of the Base Camp, hallowed ever since Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary’s historic 1953 ascent.
On the Everest walk, you’re never alone; locals, yaks and trekkers give you company.
“But there are other areas of the Himalayas that are still magic,” says Sujoy Das, 46, a Kolkata-based chartered accountant, who’s “always up there in spirit despite being in the city 10 months out of 12”.
If you walk from Jiri, a day’s bus ride from Kathmandu, the Everest trek takes about 15 to 21 days, depending on acclimatization. Most trekkers, however, prefer to fly to Lukla and then trek from there. Ten days of slow walking would take you to the Everest Base Camp or Kala Pattar, the peak just above it (at 5,545m, it’s the highest point of the trek).
Base Camp and Kala Pattar are the culmination of the Everest trek—any higher, and you’re in the realms of mountaineering. But there are a number of valleys around that are also worth visiting. That’s why Das, a 32-year veteran of the mountains, is planning his fourth trek to the Everest region, after three successful forays in 1997, 2000 and 2003-2004.
“Because I’d been trekking since I was 15, I had some idea of what I would encounter on the Everest trek,” says Das. “Fitness is of ultimate importance. I’ve always been playing some sport or the other, especially tennis. Even in the city, with no immediate plans of trekking, I follow a rigid exercise routine.” This includes swimming three to four days a week and hitting the gym on other days. “Walking on an inclined treadmill simulates the uphill walking on the trek and strengthens the knees. It’s the next best thing if you can’t run long distances” Das says.
He also regularly uses light weights for leg presses, leg extensions and bench presses, which improve strength. For the lungs, cardio exercises, swimming and running help. “All of it comes in handy when you’re walking seven to eight hours a day at altitudes of 2,500m to 5,500m (about 14kg) with a 30-lb rucksack on your back,” Das says.
As for gear, Das thinks it’s advisable to shop online since good quality equipment is hard to come by in India. “I buy most of my stuff off Net portals like www.rei.com, www.backcountry.com, and www.campmor.com. Osprey makes sturdy rucksacks; for tents and sleeping bags, I swear by North Face. I’ve just bought a pair of La Sportiva boots—my Merrells gave way after 10 years of hiking. Other good brands are Mountain Hardwear, Patagonia, Rei and Marmot.”