We stayed at Chonor House (’www.norbulingka.org’, website under construction; Tel: 01892-221006/09418031468), very close to the main temple, and managed by the Namgyal Trust. I had read that Richard Gere stays here during his visits, but that didn’t influence me in any way (though I did ask to see the room he usually occupies). Tariffs range from Rs1,800 to Rs4,000. WelcomHeritage Grace Hotel (‘www.welcomheritagegracehotel.com’) is a 200-year-old manor house that belonged to India’s first chief justice. Though located in Dharamsala proper, and not McLeodganj, it comes with the trademark combination of personal hospitality and professional service. Double deluxe rooms from Rs3,300.
What to do:
Dharamsala and Dharamkot, 8km uphill, are both ideal bases for trekking and assorted mountaineering activities. From Dharamkot, you can do an easy trek to Triund—at 3,350m, it is the closest point to the Dhauladhars. Or take a taxi to Naddi village, where you can stand on a deserted mountain road and take a look at the Dhauladhars in the distance and the bustle of life in the valley down below. On the way, stop at Dal lake—considered sacred by the Tibetans—and feed the fish. Or catch a performance at Tipa (Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts) on the way up to Dharamkot.
In McLeodganj, lazy breakfasts, long walks, quick trips to shops selling Kashmiri and Tibetan curios and old-world bookshops, and evening visits to the monastery are must-dos. Do sample the momos. And feast all your senses during mealtimes at Nick’s Kitchen, with stunning views of distant mountains and valleys.
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