Reviews: ‘Summer of ‘69’ by Hemant and Nandita; & ‘Deuce’ by Anand Bhushan
At the Amazon India Fashion Week / Spring Summer 2016, a collection inspired by the 1960s; and another by tennis
Summer of ‘69
Twiggy, the prominent British teenage model from the 1960s, would have been super proud of Hemant and Nandita. The designer duo showcased their spring-summer 2016 collection titled Summer of ’69 at the Amazon India Fashion Week on Thursday. An opening montage of retro television screens set the vintage vibe in motion as the bohemian tribe of models traipsed down the runway in gladiator sandals and big round sunglasses with tassels dangling on its sides. You’d be forgiven for thinking that Jimi Hendrix might step out of the shadows at some point.
Flower power loomed large throughout the 1960’s themed show as bold and beautiful prints illuminated the runway. Referencing a romantic sunset-hued colour palette—rust, orange, red, yellow, morning blue, mustard, white, ochre and brown— the designer duo also added a healthy dose of golden for a whimsical Indian touch. Fascinated by graffiti and street art, the print-heavy and colourfully embroidered collection included the usual suspects from the ’60s: palazzos fit for Bianca Jagger, jumpsuits perfect for Cher, babydoll dresses inspired by Twiggy and kaftans for every Halston (Roy Halston Frowick) fan out here.
Besides this, there were ample other choices that included zip up dungarees, corduroy capris, a smattering of tops—with balloon and cutwork sleeves—that was worn over pleated skirts and shorts. Given that the dresses from the era were made of slightly thicker, boxy fabric, Hemant and Nandita used blackout satin and various versions of polyester. Not an ideal summer fabric but given the amount of detailing in their work, it can pass off.
The range of jackets, of which there were plenty, included a whole host of long, short, and sleeveless versions—some with heavy embroidery and many with dramatic prints. The sleeveless lace, floral crochet jacket was one our favourite summer picks. A special mention needs to be made to gorgeous must-have accessories the duo put out: the colourfully quirky trunk bags, all of which were encased in skilful embroidery and prints, the intricate leather belts cinched over the jackets, and corduroy obi-belts worn over the jumpsuits.
Given its swinging ’60s Ibiza-meet-India vibe, Hemant and Nandita’s beatnik babes rocked minimal make up and poker straight hair—to allow the clothes to shine through. It left us wondering: can next summer be here already?
Deuce
Designer Anand Bhushan’s astute understanding of textiles promises to make him a grand slam champion in the future. The National Institute of Design alumnus showcased a winning spring-summer 2016 collection titled Deuce at the Amazon India Fashion Week in Delhi on Thursday. On a runway made of carpet grass with tennis balls strewn about, Bhushan’s tennis inspired collection seemed like a game played (or orchestrated) by Serena Williams: sure fire hit serves, unrelenting volleys, enviable ground strokes—and game, set, match. Over before you know it, and leaving you wanting more.
Crisps, well-edited and on-the-ball, Bhushan smartly worked with a minimalist palette that included ivory, sap green and gamboge referencing the early days of 1940s Wimbledon. It was sports luxe with an edgy, sexy, modern twist. He stuck to a concise drawing board and extended his oeuvre to reveal his prowess when it came to moulding, understanding and pairing different fabrics into easy, wearable shapes. His summer wear involved extensive use of leather texturing—faceted stones were set on perforated leather. It was an unlikely match but it worked in this case. Delicate strips of leather were used extensively as embellishments—it was also netted and woven together in custom-shaped panels on cotton, silk, georgette and jersey knit. The overall effect: breezy enough to showcase a bodacious, athletic vibe.
Most of the retro sports apparel he created included a smattering of all forms of dresses: polo T-shirt dresses, willowy long, beautifully draped dresses, dinky tennis dresses and fitted cut-out versions that may make the Hervé Léger bandage versions seem tame. There was also the obligatory white cotton jumpsuit. Skirts included the traditional pleated variety along with an elegantly (high) waisted A-line style worn under a sports bustier. The look was completed with a smartly tailored jacket. It was a smash hit.
What sets Bhushan apart from his contemporaries is his juxtaposition of the unusual. For instance, some of the jackets which he sent out were made of sheer organza with elaborately crafted surface leather detailing. Our favourite was the jacket made of scuba fabric dotted with leather and glass embroidery. There were other sublime variations in the form of a neoprene cutwork jacket embellished with matte leather and net as well.
Models stepped onto the runway in white visors, pulled back low ponytail, almost nude-make up, and white Puma high tops. All we needed was some strawberries and cream. It was a love match. Advantage, Anand.
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