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Lounge review | Indigo, Mumbai

Lounge review | Indigo, Mumbai
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First Published: Sat, Jan 16 2010. 01 15 AM IST

Updated: Sat, Jan 16 2010. 04 20 PM IST
Indigo, that south Mumbai temple of oysters on the half-shell and lobster risotto, changed how and what the city ate 10 years ago. To celebrate, Rahul Akerkar’s restaurant has just launched a new menu, with the most popular dishes which have featured on its menu over the decade.
The good stuff
I visited on the day the menu was being launched, and got to sample small portions of a variety of dishes. It started with the creamy roast corn chowder, for which the only complaint is that it had too much garlic. The quantity I got was just perfect; the full portion would have forced me to forego a course.
Next up were two Indigo hits—beef tenderloin carpaccio and a fresh raw tuna Gravad. Both were good, but I’ve had better beef carpaccio at Indigo in the past—it was sliced finer and the anchovy-caper drizzle was more intense.
The six raw oysters that came next can probably take a good amount of credit for Indigo becoming such a hit. As always, they were like taking in a mouthful of briny ocean, with popping beads of black mustard seed-sized caviar.
The Saffron Ravioli of Pumpkin with Sage and Pine Nut Butter was a beauty, despite the excess of a generous quantity of butter. The Chive Gnocchi paled in comparison.
Though rich cream sauces are not a personal favourite, I really enjoyed Fresh Green Garlic Fettucine with a roasted root vegetable ragout. Though I couldn’t taste the garlic, it was brilliant. Tiny dice of pumpkin were scattered through the cheesy pasta that was enriched with ribbons of spinach.
The Pan–Seared, Anise Rubbed Rawas with Artichoke Hearts is a hit or miss—either you love the Indian flavours in the Panchamrut-inspired sauce or you don’t. I’m surprised I liked a creamy vegetarian pasta better than subtle, seared fish, but the fettucine was almost soul nourishing.
In desserts, the Grand Marnier Cheesecake managed to be intensely cheesy, fresh and citrus all at once, which was enjoyable. The bitterness of liqueur overpowered the chocolate in the Chocolate Amaretto torte and I enjoyed that.
The not-so-good
I have no prior experience of Indigo’s Camembert Souffle, but what I tried was not impressive. It could have been lighter, airier and Camembert-ier. The service was slow; with a restaurant full of celebrities, we were expecting to bask in the reflected glow of great service, but no such luck. Tiger Prawn with Beetroot Couscous and Lobster Butter was forgettable; I had no memory of it till I looked at my notes the next day.
Talk plastic
A meal for two is about Rs4,000-4,500 with alcohol and Rs3,000 without. For reservations, call 022-66368999.
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First Published: Sat, Jan 16 2010. 01 15 AM IST