Time Travel | Journey back in time
The demand for heritage homes turned into luxury hotels rises as tourists seek newness in nostalgia
Gliding across the quiet backwaters in a private boat, you are ushered into Chittoor Kottaram, a 200-year-old restored palace of the late Raja Rama Varma, the king of Cochin. Over the next two days the small palace, an elegant three-room construction with stained-glass paintings, beautiful mosaic tiles and a wooden ceiling, opens up for your personal use. The meals are of your choice but respectful of the temple next door; the traditional cultural performance staged in the evening is private too, like the entire stay. Jose Dominic, managing director of CGH Earth, the hotel and travel company which in 2012 leased this single key property from the raja’s descendants, says, “It’s your chance to be king and queen for two days."
For “travel collectors", which is how Dominic refers to them, destinations alone are no longer driving holiday choices; today’s tourists want to collect unique experiences on their journeys. India, rich with the relics of a glorious past, offers world travellers the chance to experience something new by going back in time—from the quaintly luxurious life of a tea-plantation owner during British rule to the lifestyle privileges of an ancient king. “Our heritage is India’s forte," says Aman Nath, founder and co-chairman of Neemrana Hotels, pioneers in heritage property development, who believes the heritage hotel segment is one of India’s best performing in the hospitality sector. “People travel to see the difference, and not get a repeat of what they get at home."
The scale of these ventures ranges from full-fledged hotels (approximate tariff packages in India cost ₹ 6,000-25,000 a night) with restaurants and room service to smaller home stays of 3-10 rooms (that cost ₹ 3,500-10,000 a night), where guests may find themselves dining with the family that owns the property.
Nath believes Neemrana Hotels’ success gave estate owners the confidence to run their own show. “We have done many smaller properties in some 10 states by now, and people began to see by example that it was doable," he says, disclosing that the group receives one-five proposals weekly from owners wanting Neemrana to lease or buy their properties. “Everyone would like to turn their ancestral liabilities into assets."
While Rajasthan has maintained the lead on successful heritage hotels over the last two decades, states like Himachal Pradesh and Kerala are not far behind, says Karan Anand, head, relationships and supplier management, Cox & Kings Ltd. Earlier, these holidays were popular in the UK and other parts of Europe. “These properties help tourists understand the culture and traditions of a bygone era," says Anand, adding that today’s domestic traveller is also keen on revisiting India’s past—the market has grown by 25%.
Travellers are also keen to revisit India’s magnificent past, says Harsh Vardhan Singh of Chhatra Sagar Camp, opened in 2000 between Ajmer and Jodhpur. The camp, perched on a reservoir built by his great-grandfather, Thakur Chhatra Singh of Nimaj, in the late 19th century, is inspired by the majestic, sporting party tales Harsh grew up on. “I wanted to transform the place to what it was 90 years ago," says Harsh, who pulled the old tents out of storage to copy the designs.
Smaller touches too enrich the travel experience for visitors, including personal memorabilia dating back in time. At Shahpura Bagh, for instance, you’ll find old silver-framed family photos and other personal artefacts and furniture, including the writing table of Shatrujeet’s great-grandfather, in the guest rooms which, on occasion, serve as conversation starters between the hosts and guests. Meals, a mix of traditional recipes and British-inspired, focus on simple, home cooking and are often presided over by the women of the family. Observing old-fashioned formalities is another way to enhance the experience; evening drinks, called “sundowners", before dinner at Chhatra Sagar are a good example.
While happy to be spending time in the past, there are certain amenities from the present these travellers can’t do without—like attached bathrooms, Wi-Fi, air conditioning and hot water. TVs are not always available in rooms, but at Bharatgarh, which has a TV in every room, Maninder says the guests rarely turn them on.
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