BackLounge review: Olive Bistro, Mumbai
A.D. Singh's newest venture features a menu that's predictable and boring
Premium
Given the number of visitors, Oberoi Mall, just off the Western Express Highway in Goregaon, is a testing ground for restaurant brands. Its food court is usually the first to make space for the newest fast-food chains. Restaurateur A.D. Singh has launched Olive Bistro on the mall’s top floor, possibly to pilot another one of his “scalable" brands.
The good stuff
Olive Bistro occupies a corner-side spot away from the food court, with enough space to make you forget you’re really at a mall. The high-ceiling interiors are decked up in something that can only be described as “barnyard chic"—with pails, watering cans and milk-bottle crates in pastel accents and the odd rooster figurine. It’s a mix-and-match of booth seating with fluffy pillows in floral covers and wooden chairs and benches.
Once the bar is operational, the 1990s-pop playlist will attract post-work drinkers. We decided to drop in for a quick lunch and got into the short, unfussy food menu immediately. From the mix of predictable sandwiches, burgers, pizzas and pasta-heavy mains, we picked the OB Lamb Burger ( ₹ 340) and a Mixed Seafood Risotto ( ₹ 440).
The burger qualifies as a meal in itself, with a thick patty sandwiched in buttery, slightly charred buns. The minced meat filling was perfectly cooked with rosemary and served with a splodge of creamy coleslaw, feta, caramelized onions, fresh pickles and crisp fries—a total winner. The tomato-based risotto was packed with plump prawns, beautifully cooked curls of calamari and generous pieces of river sole. We decided to test the OB Falafel and Mezze ( ₹ 280) since the Olive brand has championed Mediterranean cooking for so long in the city. It did not disappoint. Freshly made babaganoush, tzatziki and hummus are paired with generous portions of falafel and pita bread.
For dessert, we recommend the light and wobbly Coconut Pannacotta ( ₹ 200) with bits of honeycomb toffee and passion-fruit syrup. If you visit with a bigger group, get the decadent OB Insanity Cake Slice ( ₹ 240) with multiple layers of orange-flavoured white chocolate mousse, red currant mousse, chocolate ganache and chocolate sponge topped with candied apricots.
The not-so-good
Olive Bistro doesn’t elevate the shopping mall café. It’s hardly an update to existing eateries like Indigo Deli or Café Moshe. The menu is predictable and boring.
Talk plastic
Soups, salads, starters and sandwiches are priced from ₹ 110-370 and mains from ₹ 280-470, with the exception of Roasted Australian Lamb Chops at ₹ 750, while pizzas start at ₹ 340. We spent ₹ 2,000 for a meal for two.
Olive Bistro, Oberoi Mall, Third floor, Oberoi Garden City, Goregaon (East). Open daily from 11am-1.30am. For reservations, call 022-40030044.
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