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Business News/ Opinion / Blogs/  Now, fashion by Gauri Khan
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Now, fashion by Gauri Khan

Stars attract curiosity towards a fashion label as well as a certain degree of commercial boost especially in smaller cities

Gauri Khan in Satya Paul SS15- Sweet Nothings Saree.Premium
Gauri Khan in Satya Paul SS15- Sweet Nothings Saree.

Some weeks back, a fashion writer from a Mumbai newspaper called me to discuss (on record), what to make of celebrities turning designers. She brought Karan Johar for Vera Moda, Deepika Padukone’s limited edition for Van Heusen and Alia Bhatt’s women’s fashion range for Jabong.com. How involved are these stars in design and concept; what do they bring to a product range and if these associations make sense, she asked. Relevant questions all. Now that Gauri Khan, first “wife" of Bollywood has been announced as the designer for Satya Paul, a popular label of printed saris from the 80’s that went on to add accessories, ready-to-wear and demi-couture over the years, these questions become pertinent.

I believe that stars attract curiosity towards a fashion label as well as a certain degree of commercial boost especially in smaller cities. Making sense of the hundreds of clothes available across web portals and malls is a confusing style trial for most. People want to spend money to look good and dress better but they don’t know how to. So, a Deepika Padukone limited edition range works as a popular resolution.

Celebrities turning designers is old news everywhere in the world. In fact, once upon a time Spice Girl Victoria Beckham, has proved beyond gossip and doubt how a celebrity with a sharp business sense and exciting personal style can create a successful fashion label. In India however, though we are a hopelessly starry-eyed nation, no celebrity is considered a designer of any worth. That’s why Karan Johar despite trying rather hard to conquer fashion as another of his many territories, hasn’t been successful so far. Before design directing a recent range for Vero Moda, he associated with designer Varun Bahl to create menswear. Tall claims of being SRK’s personal stylist (old news now) notwithstanding, no one lists KJo as a designer of any muster. Ditto for Mandira Bedi who debuted at Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai a few seasons back with her saris and runs a store in Bandra in Mumbai. Bedi though has a distinct personal style. She casually drapes her fluid saris on a superbly well worked body, invoking a style combo that sets her apart.

But Indians mostly get by, by aping what Bollywood wears in films and public appearances instead of desiring what’s designed by them. There are innumerable instances: from the famous Sadhana Cut (Hindi film actor Sadhana’s haircut) to Rekha’s bob pins in Khoobsurat, her short sleeved blouses and plain China silk saris in Silsila to Madhuri Dixit’s sequined purple sari from Hum Aapke Hain Kaun or Rani Mukherjee short salwars with tiny tunics in Bunty and Babli to Padukone’s indigo blue Manish Malhotra sari from Yeh Jawaani Hai Diwani.

Against this context, what would Gauri Khan bring to Satya Paul, a label associated with printed saris, some zany and some abstract prints—largely an assortment of garments and drapes? Khan’s personal style is simple to sum up: generous use of facial bronzer; streaked and blow dried hair, dresses by European luxury labels, Dolce & Gabbana separates, Fendi bags, animal prints, blue jeans with belts and sheer shirts, hugging silhouettes in dresses and gowns, mostly bare shoulders. When you extend this “sensibility", you don’t land far from the Satya Paul DNA. There is a match. The brand has always attempted a zigzag between global modernity and an Indian aesthetic in colours, with grave attempts made to turn everything into an attention seeking statement. Not everything works. But some of it does. Much like Gauri Khan. Besides being the cover girl for some top fashion magazines, Khan looks damn good for a mum of three. She looks her part: a rich lady from Bandra, Mumbai. A lady of leisure more than an interiors designer. So when we are told that Khan’s range for Satya Paul’s 30 year anniversary will include flowing kaftans, sheer tunics, shift dresses and saris, nothing is a surprise.

Except the brand’s inflection point that lies under this collaboration. When the young and talented Masaba Gupta was hired as the creative director of the brand in the end of 2012, the label that is held by Genesis Colors underlined its emphasis on attracting the youth. They aimed to make Satya Paul look “younger". Masaba’s lipstick prints on the first collection she designed for them stained fashion memory in a modish way. Now that the lipstick marks are set to fade away, we must ask if Satya Paul is looking at an older, mature, “wife" as the target customer? Gauri Khan’s first and foremost label is that as SRK’s wife. In other words, she is a privileged, 40- plus, well-preserved woman who will now also dabble in some fashion. That’s the most interesting aspect of this association for me. By bringing Khan on board, is Satya Paul no longer focusing on a “younger clientele"?

There lies the rub.

This series is a comment on popular culture statements made through actions or words. Shefalee Vasudev is the author of Powder Room: The Untold Story of Indian Fashion.

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Published: 11 Feb 2015, 06:54 PM IST
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