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Business News/ Mint-lounge / The great thing about the British
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The great thing about the British

The great thing about the British

Detail therapy: Gary Rhodes at the Hyatt Regency Delhi. Photographs by Pradeep Gaur/MintPremium

Detail therapy: Gary Rhodes at the Hyatt Regency Delhi. Photographs by Pradeep Gaur/Mint

He has six Michelin stars and an army of restaurants popularizing British cuisine across the world, but what makes chef-restaurateur-author Gary Rhodes the perfect ambassador for his country is his Brit wit. Brought in by the British high commission here as part of its GREAT campaign (to mark two special occasions on the UK calendar—the London Olympics and Queen Elizabeth’s 60th jubilee), Rhodes was at the Hyatt Regency Delhi from 23-27 May to popularize British cuisine. He makes for us the classic bread and butter pudding—turns it into a work of art—and shares secrets he has picked up from Indian kitchens. Edited excerpts:

You have reintroduced Britain to British cuisine...

Detail therapy: Gary Rhodes at the Hyatt Regency Delhi. Photographs by Pradeep Gaur/Mint

Taunton, UK), where I was heading the kitchen, I realized we had such phenomenal local produce, and all of it should be utilized. I started on a mission: I read up on old British cookbooks, revisiting classics I’d grown up with. I wanted to introduce an elegance to the dishes that had become over-heavy. Over the two world wars, people started to cook as cheaply, and make food that lasted. This is when the cuisine became largely potato-and-flour-based.

How did you reinvent the British classics?

For instance, take the mashed potato. The potatoes you’re supposed to use are the Maris Piper variety, they have great texture, they’re fluffy, and versatile. When you add milk/cream/butter to it, it shows off its texture, rather than making it leathery. You are supposed to add cold butter and work it into the potato, instead of melted butter (mixing the butter in liquid form makes the potato oily and heavy). Then there’s caramelized onion—slice them super thin, fry them at the lowest temperature possible and let its water release, so that its natural sugars naturally make it caramelize. People add sugar to caramelize onion. The idea should be to take a simple thing like that and show off the natural flavours it has to offer.

You said you’re “fussy" about where your bread and butter pudding is served, so it’s only in two of your restaurants around the world, and in only 20 portions. Why?

His bread and butter pudding.

You travelled to India as part of your food show for the BBC, to discover its culinary secrets. Have you used any of them?

In 2005, I visited India for the first time, and that’s when I discovered the depth of flavours in the spices and how to use them. I have used some of this. For instance, I have a brasserie in London which has a international menu, and we serve a Biryani Risotto there. The spices are roasted, like a traditional Indian kitchen, but instead of being slow-cooked, the biryani is cooked fast, like a risotto.

Gary Rhodes’ Signature Bread and Butter Pudding

Serves 6-8

Ingredients

12 slices white bread, crusts removed and buttered on one side

50g unsalted butter, softened

8 egg yolks

175g caster sugar

1 vanilla pod, or 3-5 drops vanilla essence

300ml milk

300ml double cream

25 sultanas

25g raisins

Caster sugar, a sprinkling,

Method

Grease a 1.7-litre pudding basin with butter. To make custard, whisk the egg yolks and caster sugar. Split the vanilla pod and place in a pan with the milk and cream. Bring the milk and cream to a simmer and then sieve the mixture on to the egg yolks, stirring all the time.

Arrange the bread in layers in the prepared basin, sprinkling the sultanas and raisins in between layers. Finish with a final layer of bread without any fruit on top as this tends to burn. Pour the warm egg mixture over the bread. Cook straightaway, or soak for 20 minutes before cooking—it allows the bread to take on a new texture and have the flavours all the way through.

Preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius. Put the dish in a roasting tray three-quarters filled with warm water and place in the oven. Cook for 20-30 minutes, till it begins to set. We’re not aiming for a thick custard here. When ready, remove from the water bath, sprinkle liberally with caster sugar to cover and glaze under the grill on medium heat, until the sugar caramelizes.

shreya.r@livemint.com

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Published: 08 Jun 2012, 09:13 PM IST
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