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The amuse-bouche is served in miniature Hawkins pressure cookers. Photographs by Priyanka Parashar/Mint

These days, the mango also inspires avant-garde chefs to ever more experimentation. And while we heartily endorse all such endeavours, we particularly love chef Manish Mehrotra’s experimentation at Indian Accent, The Manor, New Delhi, for two reasons: First, the new summer menu is replete with the fruit in every form and all its glory, and second, the full blast of nostalgia even the non-mango sections of the new menu unleash.

Mehrotra tracked down the manufacturer of Phantom cigarettes in Bangalore to serve as a dessert

The nostalgic trip starts with the amuse-bouche, which arrive in cute little Hawkins pressure cookers, real stainless steel ones too. Most Indian-themed restaurants serve some entrees in miniature traditional utensils, the handi, kadai, degh, even martaban (as Varq at The Taj Mahal Hotel,

The Fresh Mango Aamras in Valhrona Guanaia Cone is the adult version of a childhood staple

The summer menu at Indian Accent, The Manor, New Delhi, was launched last week. An average meal per head (excluding beverages) costs 1,900 plus taxes. For reservations, call 011-4323 5151.

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