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A curated list of mountain peaks in the Himalayas to climb this season
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The mountaineering season in the Indian Himalayas is here. The mountain range, which extends from Assam to Kashmir, is home to some of the most challenging peaks, including the harrowing 6,904m Thalay Sagar and the prominent 7,756m Kamet. Here is a list of climbs that can be completed in two weeks or less and are within a day’s drive of regional airports.
Stok Kangri, Hemis National Park, Ladakh, Jammu & Kashmir
Summit height: 6,153m
Closest airport: Leh
When to go: September
Difficulty: Novices with a guide.The Hemis National Park is home to the elusive snow leopard, Asiatic ibex, Ladakh Urial sheep and spectacular geology.
From the limestone chimneys of the Matho valley, to the alpine north faces of the Stok range, to the erratic boulder fields of the tributary streams of the upper Indus river, this national park presents a lot of options for climbers. Stok Kangri is classified as a trekking peak by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, the governing body that issues permits for climbing mountains in India. It is an attainable climb for novice and intermediate mountaineers and offers tremendous views of the main Great Himalayan ranges from its summit. Stok Kangri is a “snow climb" that can sometimes be climbed without crampons, depending on the conditions. Sometimes, it can require a mountaineering axe and roping together with teammates.
Kishtwar Range, Kishtwar National Park, Jammu & Kashmir
Summit height: 5,000m+
Closest airport: Srinagar
When to go: Late August-early October
Difficulty: Moderate, off-trail trekking with peak-scrambling on unstable terrain. Also located in Jammu and Kashmir, the Kishtwar National Park is a pristine wilderness area on the southern side of the Great Himalayan chain bordering Zanskar in Ladakh.
Historically, Kishtwar’s golden age of climbing and exploration was in the 1990s and early 2000s. Today, it is the site for an annual pilgrimage of world-class alpinists from as far away as Alaska, who come to test themselves on the region’s alpine gems, which include Kishtwar Shivling, Hagshu and Cerro Kishtwar. For those interested in alpine rock peaks, the region is spectacular, with many climbs that don’t require a permit because they are less than 6,000m. Kishtwar is off the beaten track and appeals more to those interested in rock climbing.
Mount Bhagirathi II, Gangotri National Park, Garhwal, Uttarakhand
Summit height: 6,512m
Closest airport: Dehradun
When to go: Late September
Difficulty: Strenuous, moderate to advanced mountaineering with a guide.In the epic Mahabharat, King Bhagirath convinced goddess Ganga to descend to Earth and take the form of the Ganga river. This challenging peak is right in the middle of the stunning Gangotri National Park, with Mount Shivling towering across the valley and the 7,075m Mount Satopanth to its side. Climbing Bhagirathi II requires two camps on the mountain, and climbing rope, crampons and an axe for the final summit slopes.
Mentok Kangri II, Tsomoriri Wetland Conservation Reserve, Ladakh, Jammu & Kashmir
Summit height: 6,250m
Closest airport: Leh
When to go: July through mid-September
Difficulty: Challenging, moderate to advanced mountaineering. A classic peak that borders the brackish lake Tso Moriri, the Mentok Kangri II is currently the answer to climbing high in the Changtang, as the 6,666m Lungser Kangri across the lake is closed to climbers at present. Home to the Changpa, nomads of the Tibetan plateau who have lived in the region for centuries, the Mentok Kangri II is a steep snow climb with some pitches of moderate rock scrambling. This climb offers spectacular views towards Tibet.
Pangong Range, Changtang, Ladakh, Jammu & Kashmir
Summit height: 5,000m+
Closest airport: Srinagar
When to go: July through mid-September
Difficulty: Moderate to novice mountaineering with a guide. As wild as it gets, the Ladakh range to the south of Pangong Lake is a peak bagger’s delight. There are numerous unnamed 5,000m peaks just begging to be climbed. Climbing in the Pangong range is a mix of steep glaciated snow climbs, scree scrambles and clean granite rock faces.
Luke Smithwick is a mountain guide with the Himalaya Alpine Guides.
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