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Home / Mint-lounge / Features /  Lounge review: Three Chicks And A Bear, Mumbai

This monsoon was an exceptionally busy season for Mumbai’s food scene, with multiple openings nearly every week. But in a dizzying succession of copycat restaurants and new outlets of existing chains, a home-grown, dedicated burger joint is cause for celebration. That it is brought to us by the folks behind the dessert empire Theobroma, had us so excited that we visited the restaurant two days in a row.

The good stuff

Though Three Chicks And A Bear looks like the prototype of a brand set for high-street replication, we quite enjoyed its distinctive theme, with four adorable mascots representing the Messman family that opened the flagship Theobroma patisserie in Colaba 12 years ago. Bright orange accents on white-washed walls with Irani café-style chairs and marble-top tables complete the look. The restaurant shares a ground-floor, double-ceiling space with a branch of Theobroma at the new Lodha Supremus building opposite Kamala Mills, so customers can order from the full menu of the dessert shop too.

On both our trips, we decided to focus on the chef’s special burgers. Our favourite among the four we tried—unexpectedly—was the super- juicy Hawaiian Chicken burger (Rs390) with a tropical pineapple-based salsa and feta. It’s your favourite chicken mayonnaise sandwich with sweet-sour relish and cheese between super-buttery and warm, just-baked bread.

Our friend at lunch picked a Mexican Chili Con Carne (Rs 380) number out of the five tenderloin options. It turned out to be a whole order of loaded nachos (gooey yellow cheese sauce, sour cream, refried beans, tortilla chips—the works) on a charred, well-done patty. The bun didn’t hold, the sauces dripped all over his T-shirt and, overall, it was a total assault on the senses. But the meat was good enough to make us want to return for the Classic Bacon, Cheese & Egg (Rs380) or the Israeli Salted Tenderloin (Rs395) burgers. The vegetarian Beetroot patty (Rs290) was serviceable.

The real showstopper though was our “freak shake"—a quirky food trend from Australia which combines a bunch of assorted sweets ranging from cakes, cookies and chocolates with really thick milkshakes made with cream. We enjoyed our super-rich banana, peanut butter and salted caramel shake (Rs210) crowned with slices of banana bread so moist and perfect they prove that Kainaz Messman is the city’s reigning dessert queen.

Can you visit this sort of place in your lunch break? No; visit on your cheat day. A meal here definitely warrants a boot camp.

The not-so-good

On both visits, we waited 20-25 minutes to get our burgers. While our lunch companion on a Saturday complained through the wait, another friend on a Sunday lunch date remarked that since Three Chicks And A Bear is no McDonald’s, it deserves the wait. Our verdict is that the restaurant will have to work on cutting down the prep time if it wants to cater to the neighbourhood’s office crowd. It didn’t help that the staff, though friendly, was forgetful and messed up our vegetarian burger order.

We found that though the food was prepared with care—the salad leaves artfully placed, the relishes matched perfectly with the patties, the buttered buns and so on—none of it was remarkable. The loaded burgers and the gargantuan milkshakes are better suited to teenage tastes and appetites.

The menu description of the Korean Fish Burger (Rs410) was much more exciting than the dish itself, which consisted of a shrivelled piece of tasteless fish. The sides could be improved; we didn’t care for the spiced fries that came with the burger or the ready-made tapioca chips (Rs100) we ordered separately.

Talk plastic

With prices ranging from Rs280 for a vegetarian bean burger to Rs410 for a fish burger, a meal at Three Chicks And A Bear can be quite a pricey affair. Appetizers, sides, milkshakes and desserts average at around Rs250. These prices don’t include government taxes and a 10% service charge on in-dine bills.

Three Chicks And A Bear, Lodha Supremus, Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel (8291272040). Open from 11am-midnight.

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