Fashion Week Review | Rajesh Pratap’s collection

Amazon India Fashion Week (AIFW) opened on 25th March with a show by Rajesh Pratap Singh, who ably carries the heavy burden of being India’s Mr. Minimalist. ‘Because Medicine is the Best Laughter—his Autumn-Winter 2015-16 collection that punned on the clichéd saying “Laughter is the best medicine” reflected both—his matter of fact approach to life and fashion’s fickleness as well as his viscerally investigative approach to design.

While the satirical theme of the show evoked tremendous curiosity among the audience, I thought it deflected from Pratap’s work. He has a viscerally investigative approach to design which was evident in the black and white collection’s applause-worthy approach to fabric experimentation. Wool weaves, the discreet use of leather and “black blood drops morphing into polka dots” (from his note), set the tone of the collection. I was stunned to slowly realise that the large black blood drops on the garments was actually hand woven Ikat on contemporary garments.

Here’s my disappointment. Most of Pratap’s collections have a majority of garments that stand tall and effectively as fashion as well as clothing. They form consummate collections. That was not the case here—some garments didn’t make any point at all—they were too nondescript in silhouette or content to be a Pratap. Also, a model sporting a bandaged head with a black drop oozing out from it stretched the point a bit much. A smaller dose would have been more effective.