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Home / Mint-lounge / Features /  Lounge Review: La Folie Lab, Mumbai

Over the last month, a host of new family friendly ice-cream parlours have opened across the city—Papacream in Churchgate does a savoury cheese-based Mexicano served with nacho chips, while Where’s My Cone in Andheri specializes in ice-cream sandwiches. Nearly every ice- cream shop uses liquid nitrogen to serve flash-frozen desserts.

You’re probably better off keeping the new La Folie Lab a secret from your children. Tuck them into bed early and sneak out to the French patisserie’s latest outpost for sophisticated plates of “Dessert Art" and expertly brewed siphon coffee.

The good stuff

French-trained pastry chef Sanjana Patel’s La Folie Lab doesn’t have much in common with her dessert boutiques in Kala Ghoda and at the Palladium mall in Lower Parel. The compact, black and grey space has an-all new menu of multi-element gateaux, an éclair bar, fresh sourdough breads and plated desserts, as well as a short list of savoury dishes. The chefs assemble dishes in the open kitchen.

We were mesmerized as one young cook used tweezers to delicately place slivers of pickled radish on our Salmon Tartine. It’s easy to see why the kitchen fusses over the minutest flourishes—each of our dishes consisted of more than a dozen exquisite and exotic ingredients.

We began with a Carrot and Vanilla Soup ( 240) topped with a soufflé-like carrot foam and the Salmon Tartine ( 440) that was almost too pretty to eat, with curls of cucumber, pickled onions, radishes and beetroot cured salmon, arranged artfully on crisp sourdough toasties and slathered with a fresh tzatziki and sharp yuzu wasabi dressing.

Equally stunning is the Savoury Mille-Feuille ( 330), with a topping of warm, sweet pumpkin cubes with goat’s cheese and a zesty arugula salad.

Of the new desserts, we tried the Fraisier ( 240), with an orange blossom-tinged white chocolate mousse, a citrus-soaked sponge and raspberry centre on a buttery short crust biscuit, but much preferred La Folie’s other berry dessert, the Rouge Velour. The only plated dessert available during our visit was an average mille feuille called 1000 Leaves ( 310), with a boring vanilla pastry cream and strawberry compote. We paired our desserts with the Infinite Caramel Sea Salt Shake ( 190), which tasted like liquid Ravalgaon Laco, a favourite old-world toffee, and an Affogato ( 180), made with siphon brewed espresso shot and house-made bourbon vanilla ice cream.

The not-so-good

On the two occasions we visited the La Folie Lab—Sunday brunch and a post-dinner dessert run on a weeknight—we were told that the plated desserts and savoury snacks were missing key ingredients and were therefore unavailable. The café serves its “Dessert Art" only on weekends and savoury dishes only until 6.30pm. During lunch, seated right by the open kitchen, we noticed chefs sending out incomplete dishes. When we inquired about the absence of a yogurt sphere in our Pea and Micro Green Soup ( 240), the servers insisted it had been mixed into the dish.

Talk plastic

The “Light Eats" listed on the menu (minuscule platters of open-faced toasties) are 330- 440. Takeaway desserts are priced at 240. We paid just over 2,000 for a Sunday brunch for two with coffee, sandwiches, soups and desserts.

La Folie Lab, Shop No.1, Libra Towers, 70, Hill Road, Bandra (West). Open from Tuesday- Thursday, 8.30am-11pm, and from Friday-Sunday, 8.30am-midnight.

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