Tsukiji, Tokyo: Among the believers
In the world's largest fish market, witnessing the grand ceremony of an epic tuna auction
It is 4.10am, and I am already late. I sprint down the Kachidoki Bridge, its spine curving over the gently rippling Sumida River, past inky outlines of the Tokyo Bay, and arrive, slightly breathless and sweaty, at the registration counter. At 4.14am, I am the absolute last person to be allowed in. A couple who arrives just after me is crestfallen. With a sigh of relief, I step into the small holding room and settle down among the more fortunate pilgrims. We wait.