The company of hoolock gibbons, geckos and fireflies, and a return to childhood at the Hoollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary, Assam
We’ve just devoured an early dinner of rice and egg curry, and I’m trying to calm my frayed nerves about spending the night in the forest. Dramatically enough, there’s a power cut at that very moment. I rush out of my room and see the caretaker, Jiten, and our driver, Joon, pointing a torch at the window of my room. To my horror, I see a large spotted reptile perched there. It is a Tokay gecko, the nocturnal Asian reptile whose reported medicinal properties have made it a target for smugglers. “See, this is why I ask guests to shut their windows," Jiten smiles. I turn away, almost considering spending the night in a hotel in the nearby town instead, when I see the entire forest glowing. There’s a starry sky above me, and in front, a million fireflies. I decide to stay.