The iron line between cliff and coast

For all Mumbaikars who keep hopping on trains to Goa, it’s probably hard not to take this service for granted. It’s not their fault—they didn’t have to struggle for decades with the unappealing routes between Mumbai and Goa. For those of us with family split between the two places, travel was utterly exhausting. There were nausea-inducing buses, but also a short-lived catamaran service by Damania Shipping, and a really roundabout railway route, which took almost a day to traverse. The weak-stomached had to take expensive flights.

The railway line was to meander between the Western Ghats and the coast, possibly the most challenging railway project independent India had seen. E. Sreedharan, chairman and managing director of the Konkan Railway Corporation, who, a friend claims, has demolished mountains by sheer force of willpower, headed the project. The completion of the railway was a proud family moment as well—my uncle, Shivanand V. Salelkar, was one of the chief engineers.

So now, you have wonderful options to get to Goa—the Jan Shatabdi or the Mandovi Express. The usual favourite is the Konkan Kanya—you can go to work, come home, eat dinner, pack and wander on to Dadar station for its 11.20pm departure. A good night’s sleep later, you’re at Karmali station, maybe an hour or two late, but it’s Goa, right? On the way back to Mumbai, catch the train at Thivim at 7pm and you’re in Thane at 5am.

What about dinner, you ask? On the train, you are seduced by the smell of deep-fried treats in the air. The Konkan Kanya and the Mandovi Express are filled with culinary delights, thanks to the innovations of Ahuja & Care Catering, a relatively unknown company. Samosas and vadas are passé—on this train, you can fill up on cheese chilli toast, and spring rolls, all freshly made in a pantry car.

Many snacks later, dinner arrives. Do not miss the well-cooked chicken curry (but don’t try the rotis). For biryani fiends, the chicken is tender, the rice is plump, long-grained and full of whole spices. The vegetarian one is no disappointment either, and I’m partial to the egg one.

As you stuff yourself, the rounds begin—of cold creamy matka dahi, fruit salad and hot, syrupy gulab jamuns. When you’re done spreading your bedding and resting your weary bloated belly, a soft voice will ask if you want a glass of masala milk, and your hand is already looking for ₹ 12 in change.

Every time I travel, I try to think beyond Goa, and imagine what the gorgeous coastline has to offer me. My ideal vacation is to start from Mumbai and hop off every major station on the route, alternating between the Konkan Kanya and the Mandovi Express wherever convenient. Don’t be silly and book AC berths for this journey—the tinted windows do no justice to the lush greenery that the engineers worked so hard to preserve.

After boarding the Mandovi Express and enjoying the bread-omelettes, my first stop would be Mangaon to enjoy the beaches at Dakshin Kashi (Harihareshwar). The next morning, board the train again and after a snack, try and score some transportation to Mahabaleshwar from Khed, especially if it is strawberry season.

Those interested in architecture and history may make a trip to Suvarnadurg, or Harnai Fort—Shivaji’s fort-in-the-sea. If I wasn’t feeling up to the long, winding road, I’d stay in the train for lunch and get down at Chiplun instead, which is about an hour from Guhagar’s virgin beaches.

History buffs can visit the artistically done Shivaji memorial at Dervan on their way back to the station. If you’re into the weird, Marleshwar, about an hour from the next major station, Sangameshwar, is home to the temple of snakes that apparently don’t bite devotees, and a beautiful waterfall as well.

I’d rather go on to Ratnagiri, spend a day on the Ganpatipule beach, and board the Konkan Kanya early the next day. By about 8am, I’m in Kudal, enjoying the great seafood and coastline (and mangoes, depending on the season) at Vengurla and Tarkarli.

After crossing the Maharashtra-Goa border, you could stick on the train and explore Goa, or you could venture into more anonymity by changing to the Verna-Mangalore Passenger after a clean-up and lunch at Madgaon (don’t miss the Mario Miranda-designed murals at the station) and disembark in coastal Karnataka.

Murudeshwar is home to the world’s second tallest Shiva statue, and some beautiful beach resorts as well. Scuba-diving off Netrani island, 12 miles (around 19km) off the coast of the town, is its best-kept secret. On the rest of your way to Mangalore, you can detour through Honnavar for the Jog Falls experience, find out exactly why Bhatkal is called “mini Dubai”, and indulge your inner foodie where it all began—in Udupi, where you reach in time for dinner.

Don’t think. Just board.

Also See | Trip Planner/Konkan Rail (PDF)

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