Home / Mint-lounge / Features /  Lounge Review: Ellipsis Bakery

Halfway down the BMC Asphalt Plant in Worli, eight out of 10 people will turn and leave, believing themselves to be at the wrong address. The brave few who continue to the well-hidden Ellipsis Bakery will be rewarded for their tenacity. The cake and bread shop by the popular modern-American restaurant at Colaba is dressed down to highlight the gorgeous open-plan kitchen and rustic gable roof—the space is an edible ode to Americana. Everything is supersized: Slices of fresh pie and cake are bigger than a baby’s face; cupcakes are the size of your fist; chunky cookies can double up as frisbees; and the bread loaves are large enough to feed a family of four for a week.

The good stuff

While Ellipsis Bakery’s location has a minuscule chance of turning into a hip hangout in the near future, we recommend packing some of their treats for a picnic at the Worli Seaface nearby. Our lunch basket included a 7-inch Mushroom Quiche ( 450), a substantial main made with button mushrooms, onions, tomatoes and dried herbs encased in a thin, buttery crust, and topped with aged cheddar. For dessert, we had a slice of the tall Banana and Nutella Cake ( 300), made with multiple layers of moist banana bread slathered generously with a Nutella and chocolate ganache. Instead of chips, we got a bag of Pretzel Sticks ( 60), a lot crunchier than regular breadsticks but missing the glossy “skin" typical of the German snack.

Ellipsis has earned a reputation for launching American food fads in the city—it was amongst the first to attempt flash-frozen ice cream using liquid nitrogen, and cronuts. At the bakery, the chefs have attempted to recreate desserts and snacks popularized by New York City chain Milk Bar, part of celebrity chef David Chang’s Momofuku restaurant empire. These include Bagel Bombs ( 150), chewy buns stuffed with fillings like mushroom pesto and chorizo chicken. The chicken filling is over-spiced but the beautiful glazed bread is salvaged somewhat by the Cheddar topping. The Crack Nut Pie ( 600), a chocolate-heavy dessert with a 7-inch cookie crust and a sweet-salty chocolate filling topped with candied nuts, and the “Garbage Can" cookies made with a mix of sweet and savoury snacks like pretzels, potato chips, oats, butterscotch and more, are based on Milk Bar’s Crack Pie and Compost cookies, respectively. They’ve also decided to give their cakes a “nudie" look inspired by Milk Bar—this means there isn’t a layer of frosting covering up the tall cakes.

The not-so-good

The individual portion sizes are seriously indulgent. While we love the shop’s selection of light desserts like the Cheesecake Pie (ours came with passion fruit compote, 400), we have no immediate plans to return for their cloying Crack Nut Pie or Banana Nutella. Even the bread loaves and savoury baked goodies come in a single XL size, making it impossible to try more than a couple of things during any given visit.

Talk plastic

Celebratory cakes are priced much higher than most bakeries and dessert shops, starting at 1,500 and going up to 4,000; individual slices start at 300 for a Banana Nutella slice. Bread loaves cost an average of 175, while savouries start at 150 for a mini bagel bomb.

Ellipsis Bakery, Recondo Compound, inside the BMC Asphalt Compound, Worli (66164653). Open daily from 11am-8pm.

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