Duddell’s Gets a Breezy Hong Kong Makeover, But New Menu Plays It Safe

(Bloomberg) -- Duddell’s has long been a fixture in Central, favored by the professional crowd for its elevated Cantonese fare and art-filled interiors. After a recent renovation that swapped its signature dark reds for a softer, pastel-hued palette, the restaurant also launched a new menu to match its updated look, giving us a reason to visit.

The space is thoughtfully arranged into two separate environments: a chic, lounge-like upper level for more casual encounters, and a traditional fine-dining room downstairs that is complemented by a larger menu. We visited the Upper Room for dinner on a weekday night and opted for the a la carte menu, spending HK$1,126 ($145) for two people. The new design, with its abundance of butter yellow, low-slung upholstered armchairs, and warm wood accents, brings a surprisingly relaxed feel that transforms the space from a sophisticated destination for evening cocktails into an environment better suited for an elevated lunch or brunch. 

The new menu doesn’t feel like a complete reinvention. Rather, it leans heavily into the classic Cantonese philosophy that texture, more than aggressive seasoning, is king. In some cases, this new subtlety works. In others, though, it left me yearning for the bolder flavors.

The vibe: The renovation has redefined the restaurant’s character. The upstairs salon now exudes a stylishly relaxed mood, where a breezy soundtrack and lush greenery evoke a corner of South Beach—a world away from the financial district outside. This airy, Miami-like feel stands in sharp contrast to the downstairs dining room, which retains a more sombre and focused energy, feeling intentionally designed for formal business dinners. 

Who’s next to you: The Upper Room crowd on a weekday evening skewed toward young professionals, with several groups of men in corporate attire who looked to be unwinding after a day at their nearby offices.

Can you conduct a meeting here? The private room on the upper level would be ideal. During our visit, we could hear the occasional sound of chatter and giggles trickling into the space as beautiful steaming ceramic dishes glided into a secluded gathering.

What we’d order again: The starters showed promise. The siu mai (HK$108 for three pieces) is a tasty and generous take on the classic, stuffed with whole scallops. We found the Wagyu buns (HK$108 for three pieces) to be nostalgic, with good quality meat and a perfectly light bun, though the filling itself lacked character. For mains, the char siu (HK$308) was undeniably rich, but it wasn’t as flavourful as offerings from other top-tier Cantonese kitchens in Central. Dessert was a redemption. After a 30-minute wait for our mango pudding (HK$58) — during which we were kindly given complimentary walnut cookies — we were rewarded. It was worth the delay: fresh, light, and not too sweet, with a beautiful texture that cleansed the palate. 

Need to know: Duddell’s is open from 12 p.m. Reservations are highly recommended for the free-flow weekend and public holiday brunch, which is held in the upper room and on the terrace. Set menus are available: a non-alcoholic brunch starts at HK638, with alcoholic brunch options from HK$988. —Anade Situma

For our reviews of other restaurants in Central, check out Cooshti, which serves Asian fusion food and has a spacious terrace; Tsui Wah, which offers cha chaan teng classics in a freshly refurbished space; and friendly yet elegant French spot Babette. 

More stories like this are available on bloomberg.com

©2025 Bloomberg L.P.