FOR A WHILE, it seemed everyone was going vegan. In March 2022 almost half of Britons surveyed by Ipsos, a pollster, said they were thinking of eating fewer animal products. But amid high prices and concerns over ultra-processed food, the industry is proving to be more sizzle than steak. In June Meatless Farm, a plant-based company, fell into administration. Demand for patties of rehydrated textured pea protein have flopped. “Meat alternatives don’t taste good enough," says Max Jamilly, a co-founder of Hoxton Farms, a startup.