Know your sunscreen better: India's new rules demystify SPF for Indian skin
India has introduced its first sunscreen testing standards that account for the country’s diverse skin tones through a more precise classification system. The new norms seek to verify SPF and UV protection claims, ensuring consumers can choose products suited to their complexion.
Is your sunscreen the right one for your tropical skin tone? India’s first-ever standardized testing protocol for sunscreens adds a new measurement layer for a more accurate categorisation of India’s diverse skin tones.
For years, India’s $523-million sunscreen market has operated without a uniform testing framework, allowing manufacturers to use different methods to determine the sun protection factor (SPF), often resulting in misleading and inconsistent claims.
To address this, the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) collaborated with the Indian Beauty and Hygiene Association to develop comprehensive and transparent testing protocols to evaluate sunscreen efficacy. This includes both the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) framework and a scientific classification system that can more accurately measure various skin complexions.
BIS’s new protocol for sunscreens, notified late in August, relies on the Individual Typology Angle (ITA) measurement, said Dr. Dinesh Kumar Devaraj, former president of the Indian Association of Dermatologists, Venereologists and Leprologists, Tamil Nadu.
“This system is a more scientific approach than the traditional Fitzpatrick scale because it measures constitutive pigmentation rather than just skin’s reaction to sun exposure. A lower ITA value signifies higher skin pigmentation, making it a precise tool for classifying skin types and developing better sun care products," Devaraj said.
This distinction is crucial for Indians, he added.
While SPF is essential for protecting against ultraviolet rays that cause sunburn, people with lighter skin (higher ITA values) are at greater risk of sun-related damage, including skin cancer. This is because they have weaker inherent protection and less efficient DNA repair mechanisms, Devaraj explained.
The Fitzpatrick scale classifies skin types based on their reaction to sun exposure.
For the majority of the Indian population, the primary concern is not skin cancer but preventing uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation, Devaraj said.
- The Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) has introduced a rigorous framework, including the Individual Typology Angle (ITA) measurement, to accurately evaluate sunscreen efficacy for India’s diverse skin tones.
- Sunscreen brands must now substantiate SPF claims with scientifically consistent testing, reducing misleading claims and ensuring better protection against UV damage, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone.
- The new protocol aligns with global ISO standards, promotes product quality, and encourages uniformity across manufacturers, benefiting both consumers and brands in India’s $523-million sunscreen market.
Consumer safety
The new regulations for sunscreens is expected to have a major impact on both brands and consumers. Sunscreen manufacturers must now substantiate their SPF and protection grading of ultraviolet (UV) ratings with scientifically rigorous and consistent testing.
The new protocol will “establish a proper reference standard for SPF testing, offer a level playing field for the industry, and most importantly, enhance consumer safety," said Malathi Narayanan, director-general of the Indian Beauty and Hygiene Association.
India's beauty and personal care industry executives were similarly optimistic about the new standards for sunscreens.
“The new protocol for sunscreens is a significant step forward in safeguarding consumer health and ensuring product efficacy. We hope all players will start adhering to these new testing standards," said Harman Dhillon, executive director, beauty and wellbeing, Hindustan Unilever Ltd, India’s largest consumer goods company that sells a range of skincare products.
Spokespersons for BIS and cosmetic brands L'Oréal India, Sugar Cosmetics, and Nykaa did not reply to Mint’s emails.
Ruchi Mittal, head of research and development at Kaya Ltd, which offers skincare and haircare services and products, said sunscreens are essential for Indians due to the country’s typically warm climate that results in tanning and uneven pigmentation.
“The government’s new standardized testing protocols, aligning with global ISO methods and the average individual typology angle, will ensure higher accuracy and relevance of sunscreen products for our population," Mittal said. “This creates a level playing field for brands and significantly raises the bar for quality and transparency."
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