Kewtsang Rinpoche and his companions commenced their search for the Dalai Lama in the vicinity of Kumbum Monastery. They divided into teams and ventured into different regions to scour for any signs. ... Despite their efforts spanning two and a half months, they found no child exhibiting signs of being the Dalai Lama. Although some parents recounted having auspicious dreams prior to their child’s birth, none of these children displayed the characteristics of the Dalai Lama. Upon convening, the investigative team identified twelve children for further consideration.

Kewtsang Rinpoche prioritised investigating the children identified by the Panchen Lama. Together with his companions, he commenced the search for these three children. However, upon reaching the village of the first child identified by the Panchen Lama, Kewtsang Rinpoche encountered disappointment as the child had already passed away. Kewtsang Rinpoche decided to continue the search for the second child. Realising the importance of discretion, he made a significant choice: to approach the child’s location in disguise. …

They soon arrived at Karma Shar Tson Ridro Monastery. Upon reaching, villagers shared with Kewtsang Rinpoche the significant history of the 13th Dalai Lama’s visit. In October 1906, as he journeyed back to Lhasa from Mongolia, he had found respite at this very monastery. The locals had warmly welcomed him, drawing devotees from neighbouring villages. From the vantage point of the monastery, overlooking Taktser village, the Dalai Lama had experienced a unique sense of serenity. Gesturing towards a house adorned with a distinctive turquoise tile roof, he had remarked to his companions, ‘This dwelling captivates my attention. It beckons to me.’

The 13th Dalai Lama had sensed a future return and left behind a pair of his shoes as a symbolic gesture. ...

As Kewtsang Rinpoche approached Taktser village incognito, the sight of a house with a turquoise tile roof confirmed his proximity to his destination. With each step, his anticipation grew, accompanied by a mounting sense of joy. Every detail observed seemed to align perfectly with the signs and indications pointing towards the reincarnation of the Dalai Lama. The only remaining anticipation was meeting the child.

As the search party drew closer to the house, they noticed a spotted dog in the courtyard and observed the bends in the drains surrounding the property. A figure was clearing the snow in front of the house. Upon noticing the approaching group, the individual halted their work.

Kewtsang Rinpoche addressed the man, ‘We are pilgrims heading to Tsongkha’s monastery. We are in need of rest. Would it be possible for us to find shelter at your place?’ The man, Choekyong Tsering, graciously welcomed the group into his home, ushering them inside. ...

As the guests sipped their tea, a child entered the kitchen. Lhamo Thondup made his way directly to Kewtsang Rinpoche, settling himself comfortably on his lap. Though Kewtsang Rinpoche’s heart raced with anticipation, he maintained a calm demeanour.

Young Lhamo Thondup reached for the rosary hanging around Kewtsang Rinpoche’s neck, remarking, ‘That’s mine, why do you have it?’ Kewtsang Rinpoche was taken aback by this statement. Lhamo Thondup spoke in the Tibetan dialect commonly spoken in Lhasa, which was unexpected since the Amdo region typically used a different dialect. What made it even more astonishing was that the rosary the child referred to as his own had belonged to the 13th Dalai Lama.

Kewtsang Rinpoche composed himself and responded, ‘This rosary is worn out. We’ll give you a new one.’ However, the child insisted, ‘This is my rosary. I want this one.’ Kewtsang Rinpoche then inquired, ‘Alright, but first, can you tell me who I am?’ Lhamo Thondup promptly replied, ‘You’re the Sera Lama.’

Kewtsang Rinpoche was both surprised and elated because he was recognised as ‘Sera Lama’ in the monastery.

‘Can you tell me who is in the inner room?’

Without hesitation, Lhamo Thondup replied, ‘Lobsang Tsewang.’ He then proceeded to name the remaining two guests.

Kewtsang Rinpoche’s joy knew no bounds. According to Tibetan Buddhist teachings, Lamas often retain memories from their past lives, recognising familiar objects and individuals.

The search team spent the night at Choekyong Tsering’s house, carefully observing Lhamo Thondup’s every action and demeanour. Despite the circumstances, Lhamo Thondup consistently wore a smile, radiating happiness.

The following morning, as the search party prepared to depart from Choekyong Tsering’s house, Lhamo Thondup expressed a strong desire to accompany them. Despite attempts to dissuade him, Lhamo Thondup remained steadfast in his decision. ‘I want to go with you. I want to go where you’re going,’ he insisted, disregarding the pleas of his parents.

Kewtsang Rinpoche and his companions were convinced in their hearts that Lhamo Thondup was indeed the incarnation of the Dalai Lama. However, they knew they couldn’t make any declarations without permission from Lhasa.

In an attempt to reassure Lhamo Thondup, Kewtsang Rinpoche promised, ‘I will return.’ Relieved by this assurance, Lhamo Thondup relented. ...

On the same day that Kewtsang Rinpoche departed for Taktser with his three companions, Khenrab Tenzin and Khemey Sonam Wangdu visited the house of Lonpa Loyer’s nephew, carrying a rosary from the Dalai Lama. The Panchen Lama had indicated that this child had held onto his rosary during the ‘Kalachakra’ and refused to let go. However, Khenrab Tenzin and Khemey Sonam Wangdu were disappointed upon meeting him; he met none of their expectations. He did not recognise the rosary of the 13th Dalai Lama, or other items associated with him. Becoming bashful, the child swiftly retreated from Khenrab Tenzin and Khemey Sonam Wangdu’s presence.

Afterwards, when all members of the investigative team convened in Lhasa, they compiled a comprehensive report detailing their journey thus far. Upon completion, the report was dispatched to Lhasa, and they patiently awaited a response. A few days later, a message arrived from Lhasa, stipulating the need for further examination of Lhamo Thondup.

Kewtsang Rinpoche and his companions restarted their journey towards Taktser. Along the way, they encountered individuals carrying pitchers brimming with curd, milk, and water, an auspicious omen in Tibetan culture. As they neared the house, the resonating sound of a conch shell from the monastery signalled the monks gathering for prayer. This further bolstered the team’s spirits. As the conch ceased its sound, the melodious call of a cuckoo echoed in the air, adding to their sense of auspiciousness.

Excerpted with permission from ‘Eternal Light’ published by Westland.

Kewtsang Rinpoche and his companions commenced their search for the Dalai Lama in the vicinity of Kumbum Monastery. They divided into teams and ventured into different regions to scour for any signs. ... Despite their efforts spanning two and a half months, they found no child exhibiting signs of being the Dalai Lama. Although some parents recounted having auspicious dreams prior to their child’s birth, none of these children displayed the characteristics of the Dalai Lama. Upon convening, the investigative team identified twelve children for further consideration.

Kewtsang Rinpoche prioritised investigating the children identified by the Panchen Lama. Together with his companions, he commenced the search for these three children. However, upon reaching the village of the first child identified by the Panchen Lama, Kewtsang Rinpoche encountered disappointment as the child had already passed away. Kewtsang Rinpoche decided to continue the search for the second child. Realising the importance of discretion, he made a significant choice: to approach the child’s location in disguise. …

They soon arrived at Karma Shar Tson Ridro Monastery. Upon reaching, villagers shared with Kewtsang Rinpoche the significant history of the 13th Dalai Lama’s visit. In October 1906, as he journeyed back to Lhasa from Mongolia, he had found respite at this very monastery. The locals had warmly welcomed him, drawing devotees from neighbouring villages. From the vantage point of the monastery, overlooking Taktser village, the Dalai Lama had experienced a unique sense of serenity. Gesturing towards a house adorned with a distinctive turquoise tile roof, he had remarked to his companions, ‘This dwelling captivates my attention. It beckons to me.’

The 13th Dalai Lama had sensed a future return and left behind a pair of his shoes as a symbolic gesture. ...

As Kewtsang Rinpoche approached Taktser village incognito, the sight of a house with a turquoise tile roof confirmed his proximity to his destination. With each step, his anticipation grew, accompanied by a mounting sense of joy. Every detail observed seemed to align perfectly with the signs and indications pointing towards the reincarnation of the Dalai Lama. The only remaining anticipation was meeting the child.

As the search party drew closer to the house, they noticed a spotted dog in the courtyard and observed the bends in the drains surrounding the property. A figure was clearing the snow in front of the house. Upon noticing the approaching group, the individual halted their work.

Kewtsang Rinpoche addressed the man, ‘We are pilgrims heading to Tsongkha’s monastery. We are in need of rest. Would it be possible for us to find shelter at your place?’ The man, Choekyong Tsering, graciously welcomed the group into his home, ushering them inside. ...

As the guests sipped their tea, a child entered the kitchen. Lhamo Thondup made his way directly to Kewtsang Rinpoche, settling himself comfortably on his lap. Though Kewtsang Rinpoche’s heart raced with anticipation, he maintained a calm demeanour.

Young Lhamo Thondup reached for the rosary hanging around Kewtsang Rinpoche’s neck, remarking, ‘That’s mine, why do you have it?’ Kewtsang Rinpoche was taken aback by this statement. Lhamo Thondup spoke in the Tibetan dialect commonly spoken in Lhasa, which was unexpected since the Amdo region typically used a different dialect. What made it even more astonishing was that the rosary the child referred to as his own had belonged to the 13th Dalai Lama.

Kewtsang Rinpoche composed himself and responded, ‘This rosary is worn out. We’ll give you a new one.’ However, the child insisted, ‘This is my rosary. I want this one.’ Kewtsang Rinpoche then inquired, ‘Alright, but first, can you tell me who I am?’ Lhamo Thondup promptly replied, ‘You’re the Sera Lama.’

Kewtsang Rinpoche was both surprised and elated because he was recognised as ‘Sera Lama’ in the monastery.

‘Can you tell me who is in the inner room?’

Without hesitation, Lhamo Thondup replied, ‘Lobsang Tsewang.’ He then proceeded to name the remaining two guests.

Kewtsang Rinpoche’s joy knew no bounds. According to Tibetan Buddhist teachings, Lamas often retain memories from their past lives, recognising familiar objects and individuals.

The search team spent the night at Choekyong Tsering’s house, carefully observing Lhamo Thondup’s every action and demeanour. Despite the circumstances, Lhamo Thondup consistently wore a smile, radiating happiness.

The following morning, as the search party prepared to depart from Choekyong Tsering’s house, Lhamo Thondup expressed a strong desire to accompany them. Despite attempts to dissuade him, Lhamo Thondup remained steadfast in his decision. ‘I want to go with you. I want to go where you’re going,’ he insisted, disregarding the pleas of his parents.

Kewtsang Rinpoche and his companions were convinced in their hearts that Lhamo Thondup was indeed the incarnation of the Dalai Lama. However, they knew they couldn’t make any declarations without permission from Lhasa.

In an attempt to reassure Lhamo Thondup, Kewtsang Rinpoche promised, ‘I will return.’ Relieved by this assurance, Lhamo Thondup relented. ...

On the same day that Kewtsang Rinpoche departed for Taktser with his three companions, Khenrab Tenzin and Khemey Sonam Wangdu visited the house of Lonpa Loyer’s nephew, carrying a rosary from the Dalai Lama. The Panchen Lama had indicated that this child had held onto his rosary during the ‘Kalachakra’ and refused to let go. However, Khenrab Tenzin and Khemey Sonam Wangdu were disappointed upon meeting him; he met none of their expectations. He did not recognise the rosary of the 13th Dalai Lama, or other items associated with him. Becoming bashful, the child swiftly retreated from Khenrab Tenzin and Khemey Sonam Wangdu’s presence.

Afterwards, when all members of the investigative team convened in Lhasa, they compiled a comprehensive report detailing their journey thus far. Upon completion, the report was dispatched to Lhasa, and they patiently awaited a response. A few days later, a message arrived from Lhasa, stipulating the need for further examination of Lhamo Thondup.

Kewtsang Rinpoche and his companions restarted their journey towards Taktser. Along the way, they encountered individuals carrying pitchers brimming with curd, milk, and water, an auspicious omen in Tibetan culture. As they neared the house, the resonating sound of a conch shell from the monastery signalled the monks gathering for prayer. This further bolstered the team’s spirits. As the conch ceased its sound, the melodious call of a cuckoo echoed in the air, adding to their sense of auspiciousness.

Excerpted with permission from ‘Eternal Light’ published by Westland.