Ancient rice varieties from different parts of Bengal are making a comeback in modern kitchens
The Bengali fixation with rice is matched by an abundance of hyperlocal varieties
A Bengali, they say, is made of fish and rice—maachhey bhaatey Bangali. Initiated into the world of adult gastronomy with a morsel of rice, they grow up to appreciate the nuances of bhaat-ghum, a rice-induced afternoon nap. Rice is inextricably linked with the Bengali identity—culturally, gastronomically, and, above all, emotionally.