Benne dosa for ₹99”, reads a board outside Maa Annapurna, a small eatery tucked between coffee shops and snack joints in a residential neighbourhood in Mumbai’s western suburb of Andheri. The menu has the usual idli-vada, chaat and pav bhaji. But the real draw is the benne dosa. With the Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan campus a few blocks away, it has, in just a couple of weeks, become a favourite among students and those in nearby PG accommodations.
Even as his small eatery clocks over 100 benne dosas daily, owner Animesh Shah says he is perplexed by the long queues at a popular dosa spot in the city. He had introduced the special price as a limited-time offer for students from 12-6pm last month.
The queues are for real, and few know this better than Benne in Bandra. Founded by Akhil Iyer and Shriya Narayan, it popularised the buttery soft and crisp dosa in Mumbai when they opened in 2024. For the duo, it was a way to pay homage to the darshinis, the quick-service vegetarian south Indian restaurants of Bengaluru. Benne has since then expanded to three more outlets, including two in the city, and one in the Capital. Its self-service kiosk system, where customers place their orders and pay digitally, has transformed the dynamics of quick-service dining. Iyer and Narayan’s simple approach to champion one dish has now created a buzz of a different kind. Today, if you drive past its outposts, you will find people patiently waiting, often under umbrellas, to be let in.
Benne in Kannada means butter, and that, more than anything else defines a good benne dosa (or dose). While there are no documented records tracing its origin, the most widely accepted account credits it to a woman named Chennamma, who came up with a slightly thick and spongy dosa in the 1930s, at her small shack in Davangere, about 260km from Bengaluru. The batter is said to have ragi or finger millet, but it was later improvised with rice, dal and puffed rice. What set it apart was blobs of white butter, or benne—not ghee, while roasting it. The original version is typically served with palya, a white mashed potato filling (without turmeric) alongside a spicy coconut chutney, and of course, more butter on top.
In Mumbai, the hype gathered pace as others joined the bandwagon. Namma opened in late 2024, offering benne dosa alongside Mangalore buns and goli baje. Around the same time, Karnataka Tiffin Room (KTR) came up, followed by a second outlet last month. A few weeks ago, people began to queue up for benne dosa outside The Rameshwaram Cafe as the Bengaluru restaurant made its debut in the city. Popular QSRs specialising in south Indian food, such as Banana Leaf, have since added benne dosa to their menus.
What began as a trend in Mumbai is now playing out across cities. A quick scroll on social media shows food bloggers weighing in with their verdicts on who makes the best version in their neighbourhood. From Delhi and Pune to Kolkata and Lucknow, it has travelled far beyond Karnataka to find a new fanbase. It is also being reimagined in the form of taco with avocado and balchao at Farzi Cafe in Gurugram, and paired with prawn thecha at Blondie, a matcha bar in Mumbai.
“Benne dose is not a new phenomenon. It’s just that people have started to migrate to Karnataka, especially in the last 15 years or so, and discovered these little aspects of the local culture,” says Ajit Bhaskar, a research scientist, and founder of Thindi Capital, a community-led initiative that explores Bengaluru’s breakfast culture through its darshini eateries. “Also, for a long time, south India was associated with Tamil Nadu. Now with increased awareness and conversations around Indian food on social media, people have started to learn about the other states. They now know the difference between a Tamil-style and Karnataka-style dose.”
Bhaskar also describes some of Bengaluru’s old-fashioned darshinis from the 1960s-70s as no-frills spaces—no seating, no sambar with benne dosa, and often no filter coffee. “Because they don’t want people to linger. You just eat and leave.”
And so, when a dish is packaged with just enough cultural context, given an “authentic” tag and amplified through reels, it quickly becomes a sensation. The hype may die down once the space gets saturated, notes Bhaskar. “What we are seeing right now is a heavily stylised version, which caters to a certain demographic. That’s how a dish becomes a fad, when you cherry-pick certain elements of a culture and make it generic for a wider audience.”
For a long time, Mumbai’s south Indian food landscape was largely dominated by Udupi restaurants, run by migrants from Karnataka’s Kanara region who settled in the city and worked in small eateries or canteens before opening their own restaurants in Matunga around the 1950s. Paper-thin dosas paired with a sweet and spicy, carmine-red sambar became the hallmark of an Udupi joint.
It’s exactly what KTR founders Sourabh Shikhare and Ruchi Bhardwaj wanted to move away from. The duo opted for a tiffin room concept, placing benne dosa at the heart of the menu; Shikhare says it accounts for seven out of 10 orders daily. They are also among the few to make the Davangere-style dosa, with its irregular edges, palya, and a dollop of white butter. What began as a 450-sq. ft space has since doubled in size, with more outlets planned in the coming months.
A similar shift is underway in Kolkata. “Not entirely due to a lack of options, but folks from Calcutta who travel or work in Bangalore or Bombay have created a strong demand for it in the city. There is also a sizeable south Indian population and dosa still is a primary attraction for breakfast,” notes Srishti Dasgupta Sensarma, a Kolkata-based food studies graduate, who works with an agri-tech startup. She points to a growing number of cafés serving the speciality dosa in her city—Dosa Coffee with more than 10 outlets (also in the National Capital Region), Mysore Canteen, and the upcoming Benne Co. “For a long time, many had a homogenous definition of south Indian food. The craze right now is thanks to the rise of hyper-regional cuisines.”
Back in November, Lounge reported on the evolving south Indian food scene in Delhi—the growing appetite for micro-cuisines, and the fun and imaginative fare being introduced by new players. It was only a matter of time before the spirit of experimentation found its way to something like a benne dosa taco. “We wanted to make the experience more accessible and versatile. And with its buttery crispness and slight chew, benne dosa makes for the ultimate taco shell,” says Zorawar Kalra, the founder and managing director at Farzi Café (Massive Restaurants Pvt. Ltd). The team built on the fillings with combinations like prawn balchao, avocado masala andchicken ghee roast to name a few. Kalra believes it’s part of a much larger, long-term shift. “The formats may evolve, the presentations may get reinvented, but the demand for regional dishes is here to stay.”
Until a couple of years ago in Lucknow, south Indian food was largely reduced to idli, dosa and uttapam. “Unfortunately, north Indians assumed this is what the south ate all day,” says Raag Verma, who opened Kokkam, a south Indian restaurant spotlighting the region’s cuisines beyond the usual staples in 2024, and included benne dosa on the menu.
One day, during a tasting session, he and his chef happened to pair leftover chicken ghee roast with the dosa, and realised the combination worked well. The non-vegetarian benne dosas are a new addition, and come with six types of fillings such as chicken Chettinad, mutton/chicken pepper fry, and kothimeer chicken. Verma sources his rice for the batter from Bengaluru, and uses a 40mm cast iron tawa to maintain the texture. It is the most ordered dish despite prices ranging ₹500-700 on an average.
“A dish like benne dosa is inherently visual—the butter melting, the crisp edges, the theatrics of preparation, it’s made for the camera. Reels have accelerated discovery, especially for regional formats that earlier relied on word of mouth,” adds Kalra.
Last month, when The Rameshwaram Cafe opened its doors at the iconic Eros building at Churchgate in Mumbai, people waited hours for a free tasting of dishes, including its classic benne dosa. If the queues are anything to go by, its journey from a small town staple to a social media sensation seems far from over.
