Flavoured snow and the best meals of 2024

Food can unlock new cultures in meaningful ways.  (Istockphoto)
Food can unlock new cultures in meaningful ways. (Istockphoto)

Summary

A list to acknowledge and be grateful for the talent, effort and passion that we’re exposed to when dining out

It’s a truth universally acknowledged that the end of the year is a time of reflection and gratitude. As I mull over 2024, I find myself counting my blessings that came in the form of exciting travels and even more exciting nosh. Before I dive headfirst into planning my 2025 eating itinerary, I’m taking a moment to celebrate the most extraordinary meals of 2024.

This list, in no particular order, is by no means comprehensive and is totally based on my travels and what I’ve been exposed to in the past year. In the interest of keeping things accessible (reservations notwithstanding!), I’ve limited my selections to meals enjoyed at professional establishments.

Papa’s, Mumbai
If there’s been one restaurant that has captured the attention of the food media, changed diner behaviour (who booked a table in India a month in advance before Papa’s?) and thrown out the fine-dining rulebook, it’s Papa’s, the 12-seater tasting menu restaurant by Hunger Inc., the folks behind The Bombay Canteen empire. The menu riffs on chef Hussain Shahzad’s personal history as well as his culinary proficiency. Where else does a thayir sadam with a tempura shiso leaf and a beetroot chevre make sense?

Also read: How Papa's reimagines nostalgia with food

Wing, Hong Kong
Classically trained in French cooking, chef Vicky Cheng was known for his European cuisine. So when he opened Wing in 2021, food enthusiasts sat up and took notice. I dined there in July and feasted on a range of dishes from a well-balanced and precisely timed tasting menu: there was chilli Alaskan crab, a sea cucumber spring roll and roasted pigeon, that were all standouts showcasing the chef’s expertise in balancing flavours and textures.

Rumari, Bali
With a stunning view of the sun and the sea, Rumari, located at the highest point in Raffles Bali, explores the many micro cuisines of Indonesia with a fine-dining finesse. Chef Gaeten Biesuz and his trusty team served up a menu that brought together fleshy mud crabs from West Sumatra, heritage pig from Baturiti and octopus from Kedonganan, all prepared thoughtfully and paired with an impressive selection of classic and independent winemakers.

The Agrarian Kitchen, Tasmania
A restaurant on the grounds of a former psychiatric hospital hardly conjures up appetising images. But it was here where I enjoyed a truly Tasmanian food experience in a dining hall flooded with sunlight and a menu by chef Rodney Dunn that paired everything from white asparagus with celeriac miso and delightfully sweet peas with salted fish.

Big Esso, Melbourne
Started by the acclaimed chef Nornie Bero, Big Esso highlights First Nations’ cooking in Australia. Bero makes traditional Torres Strait food come alive with her vibrant storytelling and a casual, welcoming space that pays homage to her roots. I sampled everything from fried crocodile to charred emu, which served as powerful reminders of how food can unlock new cultures in meaningful, rooted ways.

Haoma, Bangkok
Indian-origin chef Deepanker Khosla is one of the very few chefs across the globe who is truly embracing sustainability in a multifaceted fashion across his restaurant. Apart from sourcing his ingredients from his farm, he’s thinking about how to minimise waste at a vendor level and how to create a more inclusive kitchen culture by working with former inmates. This spirit of generosity extends nicely to his menu, which he describes as neo-Indian. My multi-course meal in August comprised his take on nalli nihari from his childhood favourite Medina Hotel in Prayagraj as well as expertly dressed up versions of Indian street food like the Bombay sandwich and pani puri.

Los Tacos, New York City
This chef-approved taco joint with branches across the city is perfect for all your senses. Watch handmade corn tortillas puff up on the grill and then get piled with juicy adobada pork. The marinated pig is trimmed shawarma-style from a spit, and topped off with pineapple and a squirt of lime.

Grumps, Goa
The brainchild of Kartik Vasudeva and Agrini Satyarthi—who have both honed their skills at some of India’s top restaurants—Grumps is a laidback space with a food and cocktail menu that delivers big on flavour and technique. Go for the now viral-on-Instagram Hawker chicken “Crispy Rice" that’s served with a zingy scallion oil chilli sambal and a confit egg. The cocktail menu complements the food but also stands strong on its own, making Grumps a cracking restaurant or a stellar bar, depending on the kind of night it is for you.

I’m rounding off my culinary highlights with a few special mentions.

First up, the ramen at Delhi’s Zuru Zuru. Ramen is usually thought of as a rainy or winter day’s meal but the Hiyashi Chuka or cold ramen, served with orbs of ice and grilled shrimp is a refreshing option in the Capital’s sweltering heat.

On my last visit to London, I managed to squeeze myself in at Kol, No.17 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants List. Chef Santiago Lastra and his team have created a restaurant that celebrates Mexico and Central American flavours by using seasonal British produce. Think langoustine tacos, dishes with sour ants, flavoured snow and stellar cocktails.

Compiling this list was not merely an exercise in nostalgic indulgence, but a way to appreciate the immense talent, tireless effort, and sheer passion that we’re exposed to when dining out. Whether it’s a list for restaurant meals or home cooked ones, take a moment to appreciate the love, labour and skill that goes into cooking every single day. I’m taking that gratitude for dining experiences into 2025. Happy New Year!

Word of Mouth is a monthly column on dining out and dining well. Smitha Menon is a food journalist and the host of the Big Food Energy podcast. She posts @smitha.men on Instagram.

Also read: The trends that defined Indian coffee this year

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