A chef's guide to eating pad thai in Bangkok
Chef ‘Pam’ Pichaya Soontornyanakij of Michelin-starred restaurant Potong recommends where to eat the Thai classic, a dish that carries layers of history and culture, and was created during World War II as part of the country's nation-building process
There seems to be no let up in the resurgence of Thai food in India. As diners expand their palates, expert chefs like “Pam" Pichaya Soontornyanakij are helping to frame the cuisine not merely as a collection of dishes, but as a cultural narrative rooted in balance and memory.
“Thai cuisine is not just about spice or heat. It’s about harmony. Every dish reflects a balance of sweet, salty, sour, spicy, and bitter. Beyond the flavours, it’s about history, migration, and memory," she says.
Named the World’s Best Female Chef 2025 and Asia’s Best Female Chef 2024 by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, chef Pam is a Culinary Institute of America alumnus, who honed her skills at Michelin-starred Jean-Georges in New York. At her acclaimed restaurant Potong in Bangkok, the 20-course tasting menu blends modern Thai-Chinese cuisine, where each dish reflects her five-element philosophy of “salt, acid, spice, texture, and the Maillard reaction".
She honed her skills early in the family kitchen under her mother’s tutelage, often trying varied local ingredients. “That helped me develop a deep appreciation for Thai-Chinese cuisine. From a very young age, I learned things like grocery shopping, cooking, and serving these foods to our family. Food brought our family together," she says. The chef recalls her mother being an “extreme perfectionist". “While making shrimp dumplings with her, I had to recreate the dish many times to match her standards." Her father, part Australian, part Chinese, loved Western food, and often nudged her mother to adapt and learn from cookbooks, something which Chef Pam picked up early.
Today, every dish is based on flavours she grew up with in Bangkok, but reinterpreted with modern techniques, fermentation, aging processes, and a multi-sensory journey. “The vision is simple: to make Thai-Chinese cuisine progressive while still being authentic to who I am and where I come from."
She says exploring Thai food offers a chance to taste centuries of cultural connection — Thai, Chinese, Indian, Malay influences, and more. “Approach it with curiosity and you’ll find depth far beyond what you expect."
Her choice is singular when it comes to recommending one dish as an introduction to Thai cuisine and that is pad thai. “It carries layers of history and culture, and was created during World War II as part of Thailand’s nation-building process. The dish was meant to symbolise unity and resilience, using rice noodles instead of rice to preserve the grain during shortage."
A great pad thai is all about balance. “It should be savoury, slightly tangy, with a touch of natural sweetness, and full of umami," she shares. Ingredients like dried shrimp, high-quality fish sauce, and palm sugar from local producers are essential. The wok technique is just as important—high heat and timing help create the right aroma and texture.
Her version of the iconic dish at Potong received the Black Pearl Dish of the Year Award 2025 in the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide, China’s answer to the Michelin Guide. “It combines historical roots with modern technique, and is served with a World War II–era military antique box, with Nakhon Si Thammarat shrimp, rice noodles, and the Thai flag on top of it," she says.
Here are chef Pam’s favourite places to enjoy pad thai in Bangkok.
THIPSAMAI: This legendary pad thai icon is nestled in Bangkok’s Old Town. What began as a humble street-food stall in the 1950s became a beloved institution by 1966, when it took on the name Thipsamai, for Samai Baisamut, the founder’s mother. “This is the most original and historic choice for me. Their wok-frying over charcoal gives an unmistakable smoky aroma that defines the dish’s roots," she says.
PAD THAI FAI TA LU: Located on Dinsor Road, Pad Thai Fai Ta Lu has earned a reputation as one of Bangkok’s must-visit spots. Helmed by Michelin-starred chef Andy Yang, it is celebrated for its fire cooking technique—the pad thai is stir-fried over an intense wok flame that infuses the noodles with a smoky depth. “This modern but casual place is all about the wok, bold seasoning, and the use of premium ingredients like Kurobuta pork."
THEP PAD THAI: This Sukhumvit spot has become known for its flavourful pad thai, offered with customisable spice levels that range from mild and non-spicy to the fiery thep (very spicy) level. “The spicy versions deliver an intensity of flavour that has made it one of the most talked-about pad thai spots in Bangkok."
PAD THAI NAI SIAM: The pad thai at this hole-in-the-wall establishment ensures long queues with locals lining up for their share of the dish. “Their pad thai has a unique twist as they add kati (coconut cream), which is usually not added but gives it a fantastic richness and depth of flavour," she says.
MAYRAI PAD THAI: Led by Michelin-starred chef Thitid “Ton" Tassanakajohn and his sommelier brother Chaisiri “Tam" Tassanakajohn, Mayrai reimagines the classic dish. The street-favourite is elevated to fine-dining status in a warm, intimate setting, with curated wines. “This is a refined yet approachable version. It uses top-quality ingredients and is served in a stylish setting, but the dish tastes like it would at home."
Teja Lele writes on travel and lifestyle.
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