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7 places to explore Chikmagalur's iconic coffee legacy
Summary
Explore the rich coffee heritage of Chikmagalur, India’s coffee capital, through unique estates and immersive experiences
A four-and-a-half-hour drive from Bengaluru takes you to Chikmagalur, believed to be the coffee capital of India. Ironically, I discovered it’s easier to buy liquor than quality coffee beans there, although its estates grow some of India’s finest high-altitude beans. For coffee aficionados, a visit to Chikmagalur is enlightening and enjoyable in equal parts. Here’s what you should do:
Stay at The Serai Chikmagalur
This luxury resort seeks to raise awareness about Indian coffee through immersive experiences. The "Bean To Cup" journey includes a plantation walk through enchanting estates boasting 120 plant species, with a naturalist explaining the intricacies of coffee cultivation and contrasting practices in Chikmagalur with those in other coffee-producing nations. You'll learn how coffee's flavours vary depending on the plants it's grown alongside, such as pepper, cinnamon, and lime. The ensuing Cuppa Session includes a tour of an external curing and roasting unit, culminating in coffee sampling to try fresh-ground Arabica and Robusta, prepared using French press, AeroPress, South Indian filter, and Moka pot to demonstrate how brewing techniques affect flavours and textures. The resort bar also features coffee-accented creations, like Roasted (Gin, black coffee, coriander seeds, and honey) and Filter Crème Café (Baileys, Scotch Whisky, filter coffee, fresh coffee, chocolate syrup, and fresh cream). Do pick up the fabulous Black Forest coffee from the souvenir shop.
Also read: How Chennai brews its speciality coffee
To book: theserai.in
Visit the Chikmagalur Coffee Museum
This museum, with just two rooms, provides a whirlwind history of Indian coffee via a video presentation. An interesting historical narrative explains how chicory came to be used in coffee during World War II and how it remains integral to South Indian filter coffee even today. You also learn about the fragility of bug-blighted coffee, which contributes to high prices. A second room, exhibiting historic coffee contraptions, is highlighted by a placard delineating how coffee tasting today has acquired the sophistication of wine tasting. Connoisseurs discern coffee notes that can range from cocoa, malt, chocolate, fudge, caramel, jaggery, and butterscotch to almond, walnut, hazelnut, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, lime, mandarin, strawberries, cherries, pineapple, tobacco, hay, leather, and even boiled beef.
To book: chikmagalurtourism.org.in
Eat at Hoysala Village Resort
A 40-minute drive from Chikmagalur will lead you to this remote, eco-conscious resort nestled in emerald fields. It charmingly recreates the local village ambiance and is immensely popular for its authentic Malnad breakfast. Malnad is the region comprising the western and eastern slopes of the Western Ghats. Rustic regional specialities are served on a banana leaf and include steamed variations of idli that come wrapped in banana leaves, besides an amazing array of local pancakes and sweetmeats unique to these parts. No South Indian breakfast is complete without filter coffee, which is presented in a small, grooved glass tumbler. Come afternoon, Malnad snacks like spinach vadais and deep-fried dumplings are prepared hot at live counters, to be enjoyed with filter coffee, of course.
To book: www.hoysalavillageresorts.com
Tour ABC Roasters
This immense, state-of-the-art space is among Chikmagalur’s only roasting units open to visitors and is well worth the time and effort. Explore the three stages of coffee roasting: drying (roasting to dry beans until they crack), browning (roasting to caramelise sugars in coffee to impart sweet notes), and developing (roasting to accentuate flavours and aromas through complex chemical reactions). Light roasts produce acidic flavours, medium roasts give roundness, and dark roasts make for dark colour and bold, smoky flavour. Like many coffee addicts, I always assumed a dark roast provided the ultimate caffeine kick, but I learned for the first time that dark roast is the least caffeinated.
To book: Call Anand Lashman, Unit Head, at +91 9844123209.
Explore Sargod Coffee Estate
This century-old, family-owned and family-run coffee estate is a must-visit. A trip to this historic plantation, where Arabica and Robusta plantations undulate between 3,000 and 3,500 feet, should be complemented with a trip to the Chikmagalur Coffee Museum. Owner Kartheek Sargod will tell you about the evolution of coffee cultivation in Chikmagalur and how the fourth generation, to which he belongs, is bringing farming up-to-speed, ensuring their coffee beans capture European markets, including Italy and Germany. As Kartheek correctly reminds, people rave about "Italian coffee," although Italy grows no coffee, and this coffee comes from elsewhere, including Chikmagalur. Kartheek's family runs a boutique hotel where you can stay. "Sunbird" is their premium pure coffee blend, but "Chikka," with a secret composition, perhaps best captures the taste of Chikmagalur and that unique style of drinking smooth South Indian coffee.
To book: Call Kartheek Sargod at +91 94486 21680. Tours can be arranged on special request and advance notice.
Meet the owner of Aromas of Coorg
Radha Krishnan, founder of the coffee brand Aromas of Coorg, blends Arabica from family estates in Chikmagalur with Arabica and Robusta from Coorg. These go into the brand's South Indian coffee category, Ethnic Indian Coffee--a passion for Krishnan. He believes the secret of Indian brews lies in appreciating the uniqueness that Indian soil, climate, cultivation and roasting techniques. His best-sellers are unusual blends of 100% Arabica, including the exuberant and exquisite Penchant Peaberry, subtle Nirvana, Trance, and Revalenta Arabica. His South Indian brews, like Kumbakonam Degree Coffee, Chennai’s Tradition Malgudi Bliss, and Hyderabad Royale, are must-tries.
To book: Email radhakrishnan@aromasofcoorg.com. Tours can be arranged on special request and advance notice.
Plan a trip to Kelagur Estate
The Mumbai-based, Mangalore-born Australian owners of KC Roasters, which specialises in single-origin Indian coffees, have owned Kelagur Estate for almost a century. Stay or tour this estate, located 3,500 feet above sea level and growing both coffee and tea. Here, you’ll learn that coffee isn’t just white, black, or even brown, but red and purple. Kelagur Estate coffees made from red and purple coffee cherries, like Red Honey and Purple Project, have a range of flavours, from apple, blackberries, peach, papaya, and guava to cherries. Lovers of classic coffee should pick up KC Roasters’ signature Kelagur, evincing overtones of roasted chestnut and almonds.
To book: astagirihomestay.com/kelagur-tea-estate.html
DevanshiMody is a lifestyle writer based in Mumbai.
