What to eat and bring home from Graubünden
From Romansh classics like capuns to cherry liqueur and hemp-speckled cheese, the Alpine region’s food traditions are as enduring as its mountains
Snow-dusted peaks, turquoise lakes, and storybook villages make Graubünden one of Switzerland’s most beautiful cantons. Famous for glitzy resorts like St Moritz, Davos, and Laax, it is also a rural heartland where mountain traditions such as shepherding, cheesemaking, and woodcarving endure. The local food reflects the rugged Alpine terrain: hearty, filling, and inventive, designed to sustain farmers and herders through long winters.
Graubünden, Switzerland’s largest canton, is also one of its most culturally distinctive. It is home to the Romansh people, speakers of the country’s fourth national language, a lyrical tongue derived from Latin and heard nowhere else in the world. As Martin Dahinden, former Swiss Ambassador to the US and author of Beyond Muesli and Fondue: The Swiss Contribution to Culinary History, explains, “Graubünden (locally known as the Grisons) is known for its high mountain landscape, deep valleys, and numerous rivers, including the Rhine. It straddles important Alpine passes that connected Italy, Austria, and Germany for centuries, and the cuisine showcases those influences."
Switzerland’s culinary heritage continues to evolve, Dahinden adds, but certain flavours remain rooted in the canton. “Today, the Swiss are familiar with and consume cuisines of other parts of the country. However, some dishes, such as capuns, air-dried beef, and nut tart, are only made in the Grisons."
Capuns are the canton’s most emblematic dish: bundles of Spätzli (egg noodle) dough mixed with dried meat, wrapped in Swiss chard leaves, and simmered in a creamy broth. “Capuns are served with grated cheese or cream sauce. Many families and restaurants have their own recipes," the author says.
As I enjoy the capuns with a side of spiked hot chocolate, Fabiola Blumenthal, who runs Berghaus Bargis, a charming inn at the entrance to the Bargis plateau above Flims, tells me about other local specialities: “Maluns, grated potatoes fried with flour and butter and often eaten with Alpine cheese; and pizokel, Romansh dumplings that seem to be cousins to gnocchi".
“All three dishes are deeply rooted in the culinary tradition of Graubünden. Their origins come from times of need when creative meals were developed from simple and readily available ingredients," says Blumenthal. “They use regional ingredients such as chard, Bündnerfleisch (a local meat), and flour, which underscores their authenticity."
Another warming dish served in almost every mountain tavern is the wholesome barley soup. “The hearty soup, made with barley, vegetables, and smoked bacon/ ham is a popular winter dish. There are many variations and household recipes," says Dahinden. “Historically, wheat was hard to grow in the Alps, so Grisons cuisine used barley, buckwheat, and potatoes instead."
Graubünden’s cuisine carries traces of influences from its geography and history. Yet, it has held on to flavours that are entirely its own. And many of these can be packed up and taken home.
Here are the five most distinctive food souvenirs you can take home from Graubünden.
Nusstorte: A sweet slice of Romansh heritage
If there’s one Swiss pastry that can rival the global fame of the croissant or strudel, it’s the Nusstorte — though outsiders rarely hear of it until they taste it. Known as Torta da Nuschs in Romansh, this shortcrust pastry is filled with “walnuts, caramelised sugar, and cream, creating a dense, nutty, and buttery confection", Dahinden says. Once baked as a festive treat at home, this Graubünden staple is now sold in bakeries from Chur to St Moritz. “It is popular as a dessert or a treat enjoyed with coffee or tea. Many tourists take one home as a souvenir," he says.
Chur Röteli: A cherry liqueur like no other
Churer Röteli’s smooth, warming sweetness has the rich depth of dark cherries, layered with hints of cinnamon, clove, and other winter spices. Often described as cherry pie in liquid form, this ruby-red liqueur is unique to Graubünden and particularly tied to its capital, Chur, Switzerland’s oldest city. Made from a blend of sour cherries steeped in grain brandy, it is traditionally enjoyed as a digestif; however, it’s often poured over desserts like vanilla ice cream or apple strudel. Unlike other Swiss spirits, Röteli isn’t available outside Graubünden. Pick up a bottle from local distilleries in Chur’s old town or at speciality shops across the canton.
Pfirsichsteine: Peach pits you can eat
Don’t be fooled by the name. Pfirsichsteine aren’t actual peach pits but soft, almond-shaped confections that mimic their look. They are made from marzipan, praline, and sometimes a touch of kirsch (cherry brandy), dusted with cocoa to resemble the rough texture of fruit stones. Popular across bakeries and sweet shops, they’re an unusual nod to confectionery from the canton. Lightweight and easy to carry, Pfirsichsteine make excellent gifts for anyone with a sweet tooth.
Mutschli: The little cheese with a big heritage
Cheese is Switzerland’s most iconic export, but Graubünden’s Mutschli is particularly special. Small, semi-hard rounds made in mountain dairies, Mutschli comes in many varieties, but Graubünden’s most inventive uses goat’s milk with roasted hemp seeds and dried hemp blossoms. The result is nutty, earthy, and aromatic. Unlike long-aged cheeses like Gruyère, Mutschli is best eaten young, when the texture is supple and flavours are mild but distinctive. Pick up from local dairies, markets, and speciality cheese shops to take back a distinctive taste of Graubünden.
Salsiz: Alpine salami with a rustic twist
This air-dried salami is made from pork or beef (and sometimes game meats like venison), seasoned with wine, garlic, and Alpine herbs. “The meat is air-dried for several weeks. It has a slightly salty taste with a deep umami flavor. It is eaten thinly sliced and served cold, often with bread and cheese," Dahinden says. Each valley has its own butchers and smokehouses producing Salsiz, and artisanal varieties are often sold at farmers’ markets or village shops. Packaged versions travel well, making them an ideal way to carry a taste of the Alps back home.
Teja Lele writes on travel and lifestyle.
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