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Cracking the science of ‘moong dal’
Summary
Adding one easy prep while cooking moong dal reduces its sliminess and increases its flavour considerably. Thereafter, it can be used in several dishes
In the world of whole foods, moong dal is one of the most convenient options.
When I moved to the US as a newly married woman in 2004, I landed in freezing -10 degrees Celsius weather and craved for hot rasam rice to thaw myself. The tragedy of the situation just hit me then. I would have to boil tur dal for 1 hour to get it to some semblance of doneness to be able to use it in a rasam. Those were not the days where you could easily find Indian stuff in American grocery stores.
It was moong dal to the rescue. Although, it does not have the flavour or texture profile of tur dal, but desperate times call for clever measures. Thirty minutes of soaking, followed by boiling for just about 20 minutes gave me a mushy dal for sambar, rasam or just about any other comfort food.
Moong dal is ideal for certain dishes like pongal, chila, kosumbari, khichdi and more, but it’s not my go-to for making dal (the dish) due to its somewhat slimy texture. Turns out there are some distinct differences in the nature of moong and tur dal. Moong dal has higher amylopectin, a starch that gelatinises easily during cooking, giving it the viscous slimy texture. It absorbs more water than tur dal, which lends to this not-so-favourable quality.
It’s fascinating that adding one easy prep while cooking reduces its sliminess and increases its flavour considerably. It is dry roasting. Roasting the dal for 5-7 minutes reduces its water absorption capacity by hardening the outer layer, causes less gelatinisation of starches while giving it a nutty flavour thanks to the Maillard reaction (a reaction between amino acids and sugars at high temperatures).
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Another way to cook moong dal right is boiling in an open pot, which leads to controlled water absorption, a slower cooking process that prevents rapid breakdown of starches as compared to pressure cooking, and the option to keep skimming off the scum that also causes sliminess.
In case you are wondering why I am fussing so much over basic moong dal, it’s because of this—often cooking a minimalistic dish with simple ingredients needs a lot of thought and technique for delicious results.
If you missed eating pujo food at a pandal this Durga Puja, try the recipe for bhaja muger dal khichuri, which is a perfect example of how roasting the moong dal gives it the best texture and flavour. The gut-friendly kosumbari salad showcases why I call moong dal the most convenient among whole foods.
Bhaja Muger Dal Khichuri
Serves 2
Ingredients
Half cup yellow moong dal (split skinned moong)
Half cup short grain rice (Gobindobhog variety is ideal)
1 medium potato, washed and cut into chunks
Half cup green beans juliennes
Half cup green peas
1 tablespoon ghee
2 bay leaves
2-3 green cardamoms
2-3 dried red chillies
2 sticks cinnamon
4-5 cloves
1 tsp ginger juliennes
1-2 green chillies (optional)
Half tsp turmeric powder
Half tsp garam masala powder
Half tsp red chilli powder
Jharna ghee for topping
Method
In a kadhai(wok), roast the moong dal on a slow flame for 6-7 minutes, until it is aromatic and golden brown. This needs a bit of patience to reach the golden brown stage gradually without burning the dal. Transfer to a bowl, wash with water, and drain. Cover with fresh water and keep aside for 15 minutes. Wash the rice 2-3 times and keep aside. Heat the ghee in a pressure pan. Add whole spices and fry on high flame until aromatic (20 seconds). Fry the ginger and green chillies (if using). Lower the flame and stir in the turmeric, garam masala powder and red chilli powder for few seconds.
Add the chopped vegetables and fry along with the spices for 2-3 minutes. Transfer the rice and the drained moong dal into the pressure pan. Cover with 3 cups of water. Season with salt. Bring this to a boil on a high flame. Cover the lid of the pressure cooker with the weight plugged in. After one whistle, reduce flame to lowest setting and allow to cook for 5-6 minutes. Turn off flame and open once pressure drops. Serve hot with a drizzle of ghee.
Moong Dal Kosumbari
Serves 4
Ingredients
1 cup moong dal
Half cup grated carrot
1 medium sized cucumber, peeled and grated
2 handfuls of pomegranate seeds
Handful chopped coriander leaves
2-3 tbsp grated coconut
1 lemon
Half tsp salt
For tempering:
2 tsp coconut oil
Quarter tsp black mustard seeds
Quarter tsp cumin seeds
Pinch of asafoetida
1 green chilli, finely chopped
Method
Wash the moong dal 2-3 times with water and soak for one hour. Drain well by passing through a sieve. Let it sit for 10 minutes so that all of the water is well drained.
In a large bowl, combine the soaked drained moong dal, carrot, cucumber, pomegranate, coriander, coconut, lemon juice and salt. Toss well to combine.
Heat the oil in a small kadhai or tempering ladle. Add all the tempering ingredients. Once the seeds splutter, transfer over the kosumbari and mix well. Cover and let it rest for 30 minutes before serving. Refrigerate it if not serving immediately.
Note: Adding some roasted cumin powder as a final garnish elevates the flavour of this simple dish.
Double Tested is a fortnightly column on vegetarian cooking, highlighting a single ingredient prepared two ways. Nandita Iyer’s latest book is The Great Indian Thali—Seasonal Vegetarian Wholesomeness (Roli Books). She posts @saffrontrail on Twitter and Instagram.
