As the monsoon arrives in Himachal Pradesh, the women of Gunehr village near Bir Billing trek up to the forest to collect chambu. The snake leaf, named so for its leaves that look like a snake’s hood, grows wild at the height of 2,500m, and is the traditional food of the Gaddi community. It is boiled, chopped and kneaded into a dough with spices to make chamode—steamed, doughy balls that are eaten with a spoonful of ghee.
“Chambu is a prized foraged green, so much so that the women hide it when carrying back to protect it from evil eye,” says Anoop Chugh, who runs Gunehr Sound Museum, where he documents the soundscapes of the village, its people and the surrounding forests. As an extension of his museum experience The Forest Within—an immersive listening session that he launched in 2025 and takes place in a mud house—Chugh takes his guests on foraging walks accompanied by locals, introducing them to wild foods like lingdu (fiddlehead fern), akhre or wild berries and dhuda or wild fig. The walk is often followed with meals cooked by the women, and include the greens, and dishes like siddu (steamed dumpling), babru (deep-fried bread made with fermented dough) and chamode.
MONSOON BOUNTY
The wild and uncultivated food traditions of India are as diverse as the country’s topography, many of them rooted in indigenous cultures. Monsoon is usually when these foods are in abundance, and bringing them to the forefront means working closely with the native communities. A case in point is Rajkot-based OOO Farms, launched by Shailesh Aawate and Shikha Kansagara in the tribal forest regions of Maharashtra. The farmer-led movement has been hosting its annual Wild Food Festival in Mumbai since 2017, to create awareness about the wild vegetables and foods found in the Sahyadri region.
In the rest of the country too, organisations, brands, chefs and individuals are collaborating with local communities and farmers to preserve and promote wild edibles through walks, curated experiences and packaged products.
Goa-based Ayurveda practitioner and agroforestry consultant Maryanne Lobo has been hosting foraging walks in north Goa during the monsoon since 2020, introducing the participants to wild foods that are deeply entwined with the Goan life and tradition. In her walks, she talks about the greens eaten during the seasonal fishing ban, like pumpkin and taro leaves, golchi bhaji or purslane, mangrove fern, brahmi, and almi (a type of mushroom).
For Lobo, eating wild foods is an act of healthcare: “They boost immunity and cleanse the blood, but they must be eaten in small quantities and only once or twice a year. When I take chefs on walks, I tell them you cannot have wild foods on your table throughout the season.”
In Mumbai’s Aarey Forest, where the city’s tribal heartland is home to over 10,000 indigenous people, Waghoba Habitat Foundation has been organising traditional ecological knowledge workshops since 2020. Founder Sanjiv Valsan, photographer and conservationist, collaborates with the Adivasi community to create a 7-hour-long workshop that covers several activities, such as hikes, foraging, tribal art and natural farming knowledge, ending with a meal. These workshops are Valsan’s way to fill the knowledge gap that exists in the formal education system with regard to nature-based solution, ecological problems and climate change.
In Telangana's Zaheerabad, the 40-year-old Deccan Development Society has been hosting the Uncultivated Greens Festival for seven years now, showcasing leafy greens (amaranth, spinach, purslane and jute, among others) that grow wild within the periphery of a traditional farm.
SIMPLE RECIPES
Hosted in August, the festival consists of farm tours, meeting local farmers and a meal comprising millets and greens. The recipes are simple—greens cooked with onion, ginger, garlic and spices, and often include lentils. Those living in and around Zaheerabad can also order their weekly vegetables directly from the farmers and the basket includes seasonal uncultivated greens too.
Subscription-based ventures allow city folks to experience the bounty of the wild in more ways than one. In 2019, Bengaluru-based Spudnik Farms, a network of community-supported farms, launched a weekly subscription of vegetable boxes in the city. Apart from seasonal vegetables, it includes ube or purple yam, koorka or Chinese potato, sham or taro root, and air potato grown in Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu.
The curiosity around tubers prompted founder and CEO Sumeet Kaur to launch the festival Rooting for Tubers in Bengaluru in 2022. “The idea is to bring together farmers, chefs, scientists, academics, and food enthusiasts to explore tubers as climate-resilient, nutritious and culturally significant foods, while creating greater appreciation for their role in our food systems. It is part of a larger initiative that includes chef residencies, cooking workshops, pop-up dinners, online conversations and corporate engagements,” says Kaur.
Forest foods are inherent to the indigenous cuisines of Meghalaya, and yet slowly disappearing from their diets. According to the recent NFHS (National Family Health Survey) report, approximately 45% of the children in the state are anaemic. To fix this gap, the North East Society for Agroecology Support (NESFAS) has stepped in to work with the government and incorporated 25 wild edibles like jabuit, jali, jamyrdoh, jatira, khliang syiar into the Midday Meal Program. This is part of the larger project where NESFAS is working on reviving, defending and promoting the indigenous food systems.
“Through people’s biodiversity registers, we have understood that there are around 1,900 agrobiodiverse food species, both wild and cultivated, available in our landscape and that data is from just 210 out of 6,000 villages in the state,” says Alethea Kordor Lyngdoh, the deputy executive director of NESFAS.
ON THE MENU
To make wild foods accessible to tourists, NESFAS opened Mei-Ramew (Khasi for mother earth) cafes back in 2013, in the villages of Nongwah, Mawstep, Khweng and Darechikgre. They are run by local women who cook and serve traditional meals, including forest foods like jajew siej, jajew maw, jajew lawang, pashor and jamahek, to name a few.
Meghalaya’s chefs too are leading the way to bring the region’s wild edibles into the mainstream. Chef Dalarympei Sabrina hosts pop-ups across the country that are centred around foraged foods as part of her food and art-based collective called PynChe. Her menus may be experimental, but use traditional ingredients.
At Sabrina’s pop-ups, one can expect a sweet pumpkin sponge cake with sohma (wild berries), roselle stem compote and pineapple, or ceviche made with freshwater prawns and sohphie (wild bayberry) leche de tigre, and chimichurri made of dandelion greens. At her upcoming event in Goa, she plans to use bamboo, eaten both in Meghalaya as well as Goa, for a cross-cultural cooking experience that merges Khasi-style bamboo cooking with Goan ingredients.
Up in the high altitudes of Ladakh, Ladakh Basket ensures the region’s wild foods reach far and wide through their online shop. The wild edibles are sourced directly from farmers who forage herbs and berries in the season, a small window between July and August.
“We started working with around seven farmers, and now have 108 farmers onboard,” says Thinles Norboo, who co-founded the brand in 2020. They source the ingredients directly from the farmers and then process and package it to sell on their online platform. Through their website, one can order sun-dried chives, wild caraway and seabuckthorn jam among other things.
India’s indigenous communities have lived long enough in sync with the forests to know what they offer. And now, with some support from enthusiastic individuals and organisations, they are ready to share their knowledge with the rest of the world.
HOW TO BUY/SIGN UP
GUNEHR SOUND MUSEUM, GUNEHR, HIMACHAL PRADESH
What: Listening sessions, foraging walk, local meals
Price: ₹1,500 per person (4-hour-long session)
Connect via Instagram @notinbir
WAGHOBA HABITAT FOUNDATION, AAREY FOREST, MUMBAI
What: Forest walk, foraging, local meal
Price: ₹4,500 per person (8-9 people; 7 hours)
Connect +91-9892212133
SPUDNIK FARMS, BENGALURU
What: Weekly vegetable box
Price: ₹3,700 (four weeks; 7kg per box)
Order via website spudnikfarms.com
MEI-RAMEW CAFES
What: Traditional Khasi/Bhoi meal
Price: Approx ₹500 per person
Connect via website nesfas.in
PLANT WALKS GOA
What: Monsoon forest walks, refreshments.
Price: ₹2,000 per person
Where: Goa
When: August-September (every year)
Connect +91-9423474706
LADAKH BASKET
What: Order sun-dried seabuckthorn berries, Himalayan chives and caraway
Price: ₹100-750
Order via website ladakhbasket.com
Shirin Mehrotra is a Delhi-based food writer and researcher.
