You're in for a sweet surprise with new-age dessert menus at restaurants
Summary
Restaurants across India are upping the game for after-meal treats to satisfy all our cravings
A hush comes over the table when it arrives. Eleven layers of chocolate cake, whipped chocolate ganache, a hint of a few spices and loads of comfort. The Great Wall of Anjuna, a decadent and deeply oomph-y chocolate cake, is not what I was expecting at Jolene, one of Goa’s hottest new sunset spots, that boasts of great sea views and dangerously addictive picante cocktails. Later that week, while dining at Hosa, an elegant south Indian dining spot in Goa by the folks behind Indian Accent, I’m blown away by the coconut and curry leaf ice cream and wonderfully nostalgic Iyengar Honey Cake that’s served with whipped coconut cream, jam glaze and honey.
Sampling these delights got me thinking of other places where I’ve tucked into memorable desserts, and how restaurants across India seem to be upping the game when it comes to after-meal treats that satisfy all our cravings. Blending nostalgia, avant garde and everything in between, these offerings are a far cry from the same-ol’ same-ol’ menu combinations of flourless chocolate fondants and blueberry cheesecakes.
Much innovation in India’s sweet treats scene is owed to standalone patisseries such as Mumbai’s Le 15 Patisserie, National Capital Region’s Miam, Mysuru’s Sapa Bakery, ice-cream stores like Goa’s Cream Choc Gelato, Bengaluru’s Lavonne Cafe and its newest baby LICK, Lavonne Ice Cream Kitchen, arguably the country’s coolest ice-cream parlour that serves up scoopfuls of gourmet ice cream. But over the past three years or so, dessert menus at restaurants have begun to develop a personality of their own, while carrying on the philosophy of the establishment. In no particular order, here’s a list of some of India’s most exciting desserts across restaurants.
Also read: 25 must-try dessert destinations to hit the sweet spot
Toast Pasta Bar, Mumbai: This charming little Italian restaurant by chef Devika Manjrekar doesn’t get the attention it deserves. While the crispy coccoli with generous shavings of Parma ham and dollops of stracciatella and fluffy pizzette may distract you, Manjrekar’s comforting bowl of fluffy tiramisu is a sleeper hit. Crafted using homemade savoiardi biscuits, rum, espresso, and creamy mascarpone, Toast’s tiramisu is one of those #iykyk goodies.
Avartana, Chennai, Kolkata & Mumbai: This fine dining restaurant is the jewel in ITC’s dining crown. Recently awarded the No.1 restaurant in the country at the Condé Nast Traveller India’s Top Restaurant Awards, Avartana is perhaps best known for its widely documented triple-distilled rasam that is served in a French press. While the food itself is exciting, the dessert courses play out in interesting ways, with creations such as the too-pretty-to eat fennel panna cotta with angel hair caramel and raw mango pudding that’s made better with the addition of an edible ghee candle at its centre and charred papad for crunch.
Izumi, Mumbai & Goa: Dessert is the last thing you’re thinking of when dining at this ramen hot spot. Chef Nooresha Kably updated the menu some months ago and while the additions from the hot kitchen are expectedly superb, the dessert menu, with lesser known items like taiyaki, a traditional Japanese fish-shaped cookie that Kably stuffs with creamy banana custard and serves with matcha cream, deserves your gluttony. Mumbai-specific specials include the Monaka, a wafer biscuit filled with rich coffee ice cream and an unexpected touch of azuki beans, creating a unique blend of textures and flavours. Also don’t miss the Orange & Berry Parfait. With orange blossom cream, raspberry jelly, mixed berry compote, raspberry jelly, crumble, seasonal fresh fruit and cheese ice cream, it’s an elegant way to end a meal.
Banng, Gurugram: The Thai restaurant burst on the scene early this year and while India doesn’t know much of the cuisine’s desserts beyond mango sticky rice, Banng is hoping to correct that. Perfect for the summer is the Lod Chod Bingsu, a fairytale of a dessert starring milk snow topped with whipped coconut cream, pandan noodles and sweet coconut sauce. A gorgeous fusion of textures that cools and delights.
Burma Burma outlets across India: At this award-winning Burmese restaurant, diners can choose from a selection of Burmese and international desserts. My personal favourites include the take on the street-side Burmese falooda that combines noodles, sweet bread, sago, sticky rice, and chilled coconut milk. Pair this with Rangoon Baked Milk, which features luxurious house-baked milk served with vanilla-whipped ganache, raspberry gel, fried brioche and almond nougatine, or simply go home with a tub of their artisanal ice cream, with flavours that range from Pineapple Energee to Durian Fruit flavours.
LUPA, Bengaluru: Chef Manu Chandra’s establishment pulls out the stops when it comes to dessert. There’s a giant bowl of airy tiramisu that’s served with equal amounts of charm and sass, tableside by the chef himself; and a dark chocolate and burnt orange mousse that is a delightful blend of pistachio gelato, malted barley cream, sponge cake and chocolate crumble.
The Table, Mumbai: Under chef Will Aghajanian, the kitchen here has made some bold moves. After years of colouring within the lines, The Table’s new menu is an exciting one of creative backflips. While there, spoon the exquisite Jersey Crème Caramel delicately infused with Montenegro, and savour the Chocolate Sabayon Tart featuring a luscious sabayon topped with Chantilly cream and Kerala vanilla glacé. For chocolate enthusiasts, the Chocolate Budino combines espresso gelée, hazelnut praline, making it a triumvirate of dessert delights.
Some may call this sweet uprising an extension of “Little Treat Culture", the trend of treating oneself to many small pleasures as a form of self-care in order to deal with the pressures of daily life. As more people look for little ways to soothe and indulge themselves, chefs and restaurateurs are responding by doubling down on sections of the menus that truly bring us joy. The next time you dine out, you may discover that the real highlight of a meal might lie in that final, delectable course.
Word of Mouth is a monthly column on dining out and dining well. Smitha Menon is a food journalist and the host of the Big Food Energy podcast. She posts @smitha.men on Instagram.
