Cook the book: A taste of Odisha with Pakhala, Dalma and Chhena Poda

PAKHAALA

During the scorching summer months, Pakhaala is the dish of preference, thanks to its hydration and the cooling comfort. This traditional preparation of fermented rice, soaked in water, is rich in probiotics. Often served in Kansaa (bell-metal) bowls, Pakhaala is a staple that is typically paired with sides like Saaga Bhajaa (sautéed greens), Paaga (mashed spiced vegetables), and crispy Badi Churaa and fish or Sukhuaa (dried fish). The emphasis is on nourishment with an effort to beat the heat. What elevates Pakhaala is its garnish, curd, green chillies, crunchy shallots, and crushed mango ginger. Together, they create a medley of tang, spice, and aroma. Pakhaala is Odisha’s time-tested remedy for summer fatigue and a true comfort food.

Time: 45 mins (+10 hours of fermentation)

Makes: 4 servings

Recipe

Sweta Biswal

Ingredients

Parboiled rice: 500 gms

Sour curd: 250 gms

Green chillies: 6 nos

Shallots: 10 nos

Mango ginger: 10 gms

Salt: As per taste

Method

Wash the rice thoroughly until the water runs clear. Soak it in water for 30 minutes.

Bring 3 to 4 litres of water to a rolling boil in a large pot. Gently add the soaked rice and stir once to prevent sticking.

Boil on high heat for 10 minutes, then reduce to medium, and continue cooking until the rice grains are very soft. They should be softer than usual as they firm up slightly upon fermentation.

Carefully drain most of the excess water, leaving behind a little to retain the starch.

Allow the rice to cool down to room temperature. Add just enough clean water to the rice so it is submerged by about an inch.

Cover the vessel loosely with a lid and let it ferment for 10–12 hours in a cool, dark spot.

A tangy aroma and small bubbles will indicate that the fermentation is complete.

Just before serving, mix in the sour curd, green chillies, shallots, mango ginger, and salt (optional).

Special Serving Tip: Crush lemon leaves and green chillies into the rice before serving. Alternatively, one can temper it with mustard seeds, dried red chillies, curry leaves in mustard oil, and serve it as Chhunka Pakhaala.

DALMA

Dalma is one of Odisha’s most iconic and comforting dishes, cherished across and even outside the state, by all generations. Dalma reflects Odia cuisine’s philosophy of simple, wholesome eating. The original version features boiled lentils and seasonal vegetables, gently seasoned with Pancha Phutana and Jeera Lankaa Gunda, highlighting the authentic flavours of the ingredients. With the addition of aromatic spices, ginger, and a touch of ghee, Dalma turns into a nourishing delight that graces daily meals and festive feasts alike. It remains a staple in Odia homes and temples, celebrated not just for its taste but also for its nutritional value. Packed with protein, fibre, and essential nutrients, Dalma is a perfect example of balance in Odia cuisine.

Time: 35 mins (+10 mins preparation)

Makes: 4 servings

Recipe

Ritu Pattanaik

Ingredients

Arhar dal: 300 gms

Red pumpkin: 100 gms

Yam: 50 gms

Eggplant: 1 no

Turmeric: 0.5 gm

Ginger: 2 gms

Radish: 2 nos

Sweet potato: 1 no

Grated coconut: 20 gms

Pure ghee: 25 gms

Water: 500 ml

Whole cumin: 25 gms

Red chillies: 5 nos

Salt: As per taste

For the tempering

Dry red chillies: 2 nos

Cumin seeds: 5 gms

Method

Preparation:

Cut the vegetables into cubes.

Dry-roast 20 gms of cumin and 3 dry red chillies. Grind them into a coarse powder (Jeera Lankaa Gunda).

Cooking instructions:

Place the vessel on the fire.

Add washed dal, vegetables, water, crushed ginger, salt, and turmeric.

Cover and cook on low–medium heat until the dal and vegetables are cooked properly.

Remove from the flame.

Tempering:

In a wok, heat ghee.

Add Pancha Phutana and whole dry red chillies and let them splutter.

Pour the tempering to the cooked dal and vegetable mixture. Cover immediately to retain the aroma.

Add the Jeera Lankaa Gunda

and grated coconut. Mix well and serve.

CHHENAA PODA

Chhenaa Poda, meaning ‘burnt cheese’ in Odia, is one of Odisha’s iconic desserts. This delectable sweet is said to have been developed by Sudarshan Sahu, a traditional sweet maker from Nayagarh. Since then, Chhenaa Poda has become a symbol of Odia culinary creativity. The mixture of fresh Chhenaa (cottage cheese), sugar, a little semolina for binding, and a hint of green cardamom, is traditionally wrapped in dried sal leaves and baked from bottom and top. The leaves prevent burning and impart a subtle earthy fragrance that makes the sweet truly unique. With its smoky crust and caramelized centre, Chhenaa Poda is unlike any other Indian dessert, a perfect balance of taste and toothsome flavour.

Time: 75 mins (+15 mins preparation time)

Makes: 4 servings

Recipe

Rachit Kirteeman

Ingredients

Fresh Chhenaa: 400 gms

Sugar: 150 gms

Semolina (sooji): 15 gms

Green cardamom: 12 gms

Cashew and raisins: 50 gms

Ghee or oil: 10 ml

(for greasing and flavour)

Dried sal leaves/banana leaves: 2–3 nos

Method

Prepare the Chhenaa:

Boil 2 litres of milk and curdle it by adding lemon juice or vinegar gradually while stirring gently. Once the milk has curdled, strain the curds through a muslin cloth and rinse them under cold water to remove any sourness.

Drain and press the Chhenaa to remove excess whey, then crumble it finely, making sure it’s still moist.

Knead the Chhenaa well by hand until it becomes smooth and soft (10–12 minutes), free of lumps. When it does not stick to your hands while kneading, it’s done.

Make the Chhenaa Poda mixture:

In a large bowl, mix the kneaded Chhenaa with sugar thoroughly. Continue to mash and knead until the mixture becomes light and batter-like in consistency. If too dry, add a few tablespoons of milk or reserved whey. Add semolina, cardamom powder. Mix well.

Fold in chopped dry fruits if desired. The mixture should be soft but hold its shape.

Prepare for baking:

Preheat the oven to 180–200°C (350–400°F). Grease a baking pan with ghee or oil. Add a few tbsp of water to the bottom. Line it with sal leaves/banana leaves and press firmly.

Transfer the Chhenaa mixture into the pan and spread evenly. Cover with more leaves and put the lid on with a weight on top.

Bake the Chhenaa Poda:

Bake for about 50–60 minutes or until the top turns a deep golden brown and caramelized.

Check doneness by inserting a toothpick or skewer; it should come out clean without wet batter.

Excerpted with permission from Odia Byanjana: Classic Odia Recipes by Debasish Patanaik, Aleph Book Company.

Price: 1999

Pages: 128