Try these sweet and savoury raw mango recipes from Lucknow

Fresh raw mango replaces khatayi in savoury dishes until they are available in the market. The tartness of fresh fruit enhances staple summer recipes like dal and vegetable stir fry. In Hindu homes of Lucknow, yellow arhar dal becomes aam ki dal when cooked with grated raw mango and tempered with cumin and dry red chilli. Similarly, summer gourds, which are infamous for being bland, like the parwal, are cooked with a stuffing of grated raw mango and whole spices like nigella seeds, cumin, fennel seeds and coriander powder.

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However, raw mango’s role isn’t limited to being a flavouring agent—aam ki subzi becomes a seasonal addition to the vegetable repertoire and forms a formidable holy trinity with dal-chawal for a light lunch. Nayan Jain, a capital market lawyer in Delhi, grew up enjoying kairi ki subzi made by her mother in a Thakur-Jain household in Lucknow. She now replicates the dish in the memory of summers at home. “Slices of kairi (baby mango) are sauteed in smoked mustard oil with spices like asafoetida, nigella seeds, cumin, turmeric and red chilli powder and a sprinkle of sugar to balance the zing."

Achraj, a popular dish made with raw mangoes and minced mutton, regularly features on the Lucknowi Muslim dastarkhwan. The mince is cooked in a masala base of onion, ginger, garlic and whole spices-raw mango is added at the end to retain its tartness and complement the savouriness of the meat. Sometimes, the leftover achraj is repurposed, turned into a simple pulao, and served with accompaniments like raita and kachumbar salad. The sweetness from the birista (crisp fried onions), tangy raw mango and savoury meat, make it a delectable and balanced dish.

The harmony of flavours is a crucial element in understanding Lucknowi culinary traditions. The spices and seasonings enhance and complement the flavours of the meat and vegetables, not overpowering them, making the food khush rang (attractive) and khush zaiqa (delicious). Speaking of well-balanced flavours, gudamba, a sweet and tangy dessert, is a famous raw mango sweet dish made during summer months in middle-class households.

Fewer ingredients, less cooking time and refreshing flavours make gudamba a favourite with children and elders alike. Whole-wheat flour or fine semolina is toasted in ghee and then cooked with sugar syrup and water. Gudamba is enjoyed as a hot halwa, but the consistency is still loose. Interestingly, gudamba is also the name of a beverage made in Amroha, a town in Uttar Pradesh around 300 kilometres from Lucknow. “We extract the raw mango pulp and cook it down to a concentrate with equal amounts of sugar. Once cooled, it is stored in an airtight jar and diluted with cold water for a refreshing, sweet and tangy summer drink," shares Summaiya Javed Akhtar, whose hometown is Amroha.

It is interesting to see how Lucknow’s love for mangoes and its dishes isn’t limited to traditional dishes. Chefs and mango aficionados are constantly innovating their food, giving hero status to this ingredient. Mohsin Qureshi, head chef at Azrak, a fine-dine restaurant in Lucknow, is being lauded for his most recent addition to the menu, Kacche Aam ke Murgh Kawab. The dish is created by marinating chicken breast fillets with a spiced raw mango mix and a stuffing of grated raw mango and honey, then grilled and served with a chutney.

Lucknow-based food entrepreneur Jyotsana Kaur Habilullah started a mango cooking competition as a part of her annual mango festival at the city's farmer's market. This year, the mango festival will run from June 8 to 9. She came up with Kairi Gosht in one of the editions of the festival, using jaggery to counteract the tartness of the raw mangoes. Additionally, achari (pickling) spices like fennel, nigella, mustard seeds, cumin seeds and mustard oil further enhanced the flavour of this mutton curry. She has an archive of over three hundred mango recipes collected over the last ten years. Her initiative aims to restore people’s love for mangoes, not just as food, but also for their place in Lucknow’s culture, language, and poetry.

Recipe of Kaccha Aam and Qeema Pulao

Serves 4-5 people

Ingredients

500g mutton mince

300g pulao rice (washed and soaked)

100g thinly sliced onions

100g cut kairi (raw mangoes)

15g ginger garlic paste

5g red chilli powder

2.5g turmeric powder

10g coriander powder

5g garam masala powder (optional)

4-6 green chillies

5g cumin seeds

6-7 whole black pepper

1 inch piece cinnamon stick

2 bay leaf

1 black cardamom

Salt to taste

150ml any neutral oil

Half tsp kewra water

Method

Heat oil and fry half the onions until brown.

Add all the whole spices and the mutton mince.

Fry for a few minutes, then add ginger-garlic paste and salt.

Evaporate all the liquid the mince releases and add chilli powder, green chillies, turmeric, and coriander powder.

Once the qeema has bumped (oil has come to the top), add kairi pieces, remaining sliced onion, and garam masala. Simmer on a low flame. Add some water if the mince looks too dry.

Meanwhile, boil water in a separate container with salt and bay leaves. Cook the soaked rice until 90 percent done and drain the excess water.

Add the rice and drizzle kewra water in the pan with cooking mince. Garnish with coriander leaves.

Seal the vessel with silver foil and then put the lid on it.

Put a flat tawa on a high flame and keep the sealed pulao vessel for dum—10 minutes on high heat and 15 on a low flame. Switch off the flame and let it rest before opening the seal.

Fluff the rice upside down just before serving. The pulao can be served with raita as an accompaniment.

Taiyaba Ali is a chef and food writer who divides her time between Lucknow and Bengaluru.

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