
No other city has welcomed me more than Barcelona. I have visited it many times, as a backpacker with hardly any money, but just enough for a packet of chips for lunch and dinner, and a couple of Guinness at night. I started going back to the city to experience the wine regions of Spain once I ventured into the wine world.
If you love your vino, Barcelona is close to Cava country, Spain’s answer to high quality sparkling wine in the region of Penedès, which is less than an hour away. For high quality reds, you must visit Priorat or Montsant about a couple of hours drive away from the city.
Barcelona is arguably one of the foremost culinary destinations with an expansive range of wines, and boasts of an energetic drinking culture. Creativity is encouraged, be it in the food, or in the winery designs. Restaurants here are taking inspiration from traditional fare and giving it a modern spin. The food at very humble bodegas or tapas bars, is delicious and the average glass of wine is pretty affordable. Walk into any of them in the non-touristy areas like El Poble-Sec, or Gràcia to get a more local experience.
When in Spain, one must drink vermut or vermouth as we know it. Red sweet vermouth poured over ice with an orange wedge just before lunch is a treat and it whets the appetite. I like starting my evening with a white dry vermouth on ice. It’s something James Bond may order at the bar.
Here's where you should head for a complete food and drinks experience in Barcelona.
When in Barcelona, check out Bar Brutal, which is a wine bar with a focus on natural wines. To be fair, I love any place that has barrels sticking out of the walls, and the service staff filling up my drink from them directly. For a more intimate experience, choose La Vinya Del Senyor, which also has an extensive wine list. It is rustic and is right next to the beautiful Basilica Santa Maria del Mar. Take a seat on the patio for the views.
For my wine geek friends, visit Món Vínic, which has an astounding collection of wines, with many of them by the glass. The sommeliers are top class and will get you up to speed on Spanish wines. They have tasting events the last time I checked that you can sign up for.
Not too far from Món Vínic is Tapas24, and the one at Diputacio, blew my mind. In Spain, people usually don’t eat early. But, in the early evening when I decided to go for a glass of wine and some bites, there was already a queue half a block long to get in. Sitting by the kitchen counter, I enjoyed watching the frenzy of the place. The food is top-notch, especially the Iberian ham, mozzarella and truffle, anchovies and the tomato tartare.
To get a glimpse of the exceptional talent of chef Albert Adria (from the restaurant Tickets that shut down in 2021) of molecular gastronomy fame, book a meal at the Michelin-starred restaurant Enigma. It’s quite a futuristic space, and they are known for their experiential, seasonal tasting menus. Splurge (if you must) and try the tasting menu with wine pairing.
If you love markets, plan a visit to the historic 13th century La Boqueria that features everything from cheese, olives to charcuterie, oysters (so good with Cava) and small restaurants amongst the 300-plus stalls. Bar Pinotxo, recommended by the legendary late Anthony Bourdain, is excellent for fresh, traditional Catalan food. If you find it touristy, try the grand Mercat de Santa Caterina market for local specialities such as canned fish, vinegars, breads and freshly-made pastas.
To buy some wine to drink in your Airbnb, Vila Viniteca boasts of a serious collection. You can drink there as well with some nibbles and the oh-so delicious Iberican jam. It reminds me of the wine shop Hedonism in London. With your freshly-purchased bottle of wine, head to Parc de la Ciutadella for a picnic. Now this is not strictly legal, but if you are respectful of the environment, it should not be an issue.
For cocktails, Paradiso it is. Say hello to the co-founder Giacomo Giannotti and his fun team, as they concoct some imaginative drinks. Currently ranking #4 on The World’s 50 Best Bars list, the cocktails here are to die for. Apart from being delicious, there is always something up their sleeve to give you an unexpected experience. My favourite is the ocean-inspired Atlantide made with vodka, sea cordial, clarified bergamot and olive vermouth. What surprised me when they came to Mumbai, is the following they have in India. Their Macallan Experience every Thursday and Friday is highly recommended.
Sips is another cocktail bar that is casual and fun, and you are almost guaranteed to make new friends. They use locally-sourced ingredients combined with modern flair. Another favourite is Dr. Stravinsky, that prides itself on doing everything in house in terms of ingredients and in an upscale vibe. The staff is also super friendly.
Spain has been in the forefront of gastronomy, and their wines are incredible, however underrated. A glass of Ribera Del Duero from Dominio de Cair will cement any doubt you may have.
Nikhil Agarwal is a sommelier and founder of beverage-related events and consulting company All Things Nice.
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