Capsicums are primed for stuffing
Summary
The boxy shape and cavity of the capsicum make it perfect for all kinds of stuffed vegetable experiments. Here are ideas and recipes to get cooking
Shabdkosh, an online English and Indian language dictionary, defines the Kannada word dappa as “more than average fatness". This makes the Kannada word dappa menasinakai mean a more than averagely fat chilli, which is an apt description for capsicum. In the Hindi-speaking regions of the country, it’s called Shimla mirch. I have often wondered about the Shimla connection and decided to look it up. Apparently, it dates back to British times. Capsicum, native to South and Central America, arrived in India possibly at end of 15th century via the Columbian Exchange. The British began cultivating it in Shimla, making it one of the first places in India to grow this New World crop. Nowadays, capsicums are cultivated almost pan-India.
If you order capsicums online, you will likely receive the large, thick-fleshed variety. However, in open markets, you will find smaller varieties with thinner skin, which have better flavour and cook in barely two minutes. Using these smaller desi varieties in your usual dishes will yield tastier results.
Also read: When the menu reads like a travelogue
I’m not a fan of raw capsicum in salads due to their strong or sometimes bitter flavour. However, roast or sauté them, and now we’re talking. Capsicum pairs well with paneer (in kadai paneer), potatoes, corn or in mixed vegetable subzis, adding freshness, crunch and brings lightness to heavier gravies or starchy vegetables.
My cousin got married nearly 18 years ago in Mysuru and we still talk about the capsicum rice served for the post-wedding lunch. Large chunks of pan-fried capsicum tossed with rice and seasoned with a spice mix that uses a long list of spices (and dals), yet delicately balanced. It’s a dish that left a mark on my memory and one I’ve tried to recreate many times in my kitchen.
Another ingredient that pairs well with capsicum is gram flour or besan. It adds heft to capsicum, making it a more filling and hearty dish compared to when it is made into a subzi on its own. Chilli bajjis are a common part of south Indian street food, but Bengaluru has a unique dappa menasinakai bajji, which I came to know through my friend Ajit Bhaskar, who conducts popular street food walks in the city. Whole capsicum is dipped in besan batter and deep-fried until golden brown. The fried bajji is then slit in half and stuffed with a mix of finely chopped onion, grated carrot, coriander, lemon juice, and the vendor’s special spice mix. You can get creative with this bajji by first slitting the capsicum open, stuffing it with a potato-spice mixture, and then batter-coating and deep frying.
The boxy shape and cavity of the capsicum make it perfect for all kinds of stuffed vegetable experiments. Gujaratis have a delectable dish where whole capsicums are stuffed with besan and spices, steam-cooked, and then shallow-fried, making it a hearty side dish to phulkas. You can also honour capsicum’s heritage by creating a Mexican-style quinoa and bean stuffing, covering it with sauces and cheese, and baking it for a one-pan meal. Minced meat can be used instead of beans. You can mix up all the leftover veggies, rice, beans, or pasta in your fridge, add a bunch of complementary spices, stuff it in the capsicums, bake it, and your zero-waste dish is ready to be served.
Capsicum handvo bites
Serves 4
(Handvo is a Gujarati lentil and vegetable savoury cake baked in the oven.)
Ingredients
Half cup rice
Quarter cup tur dal
Quarter cup chana dal
2 green chillies
Quarter cup sour yogurt
One and a half tsp grated ginger
Quarter cup grated carrot
Quarter cup finely chopped cabbage Quarter cup grated bottle gourd
1 tbsp oil
1 tsp salt
Half tsp baking soda
4 large capsicums
For the tempering
1 tbsp oil 2 tsp white sesame seeds
Half tsp mustard seeds
1-2 sprigs curry leaves
Method
Wash the rice and dals and soak for 5-6 hours. Drain and grind with the chillies to a slightly coarse paste using up to half cup of water. Remove to a bowl, mix in yogurt, cover and ferment for 6-8 hours or overnight, until well risen. To this batter, add the ginger, veggies, oil, salt and baking soda and whisk well.
Slice the capsicums into two halves (lengthwise). Scrape out the seeds and membranes and ladle the handvo batter into the halves. Fit them snugly in a baking dish and bake at 180 degrees Celsius for 20-25 minutes, until the batter is cooked. Alternately, these can also be steamed. Heat the oil in a small pan. Add sesame seeds, mustard seeds and curry leaves. Once the seeds splutter, transfer a bit of tempering on each of the capsicum halves. Serve hot as a tea-time snack or an appetiser.
Note: You can also buy handvo premix, combine with it the ingredients as mentioned in the pack to make this a quick recipe.
Guasacaca—A Venezuelan guacamole
Makes 1 cup
(A condiment, dip and spread, ready in 5 minutes)
Ingredients
1 large green capsicum
1 ripe avocado
1 small onion, diced
1-2 green chillies
1 cup coriander leaves
Half cup flat leaf parsley
5-6 cloves garlic
2-3 tbsp lemon juice
1 tsp salt
2 tbsp olive oil
Method
Deseed and chop the capsicum. Scoop out the avocado flesh. Combine all the ingredients in a food processor and blend to get a smooth paste.
Serve along with chips, vegetable sticks or spread on bread or use as a chutney along with a meal. Also try tossing cooked pasta in this sauce, top with grated Parmesan and serve.
Note: You can use half cup of cooked white beans or chickpeas instead of avocado.
Double Tested is a fortnightly column on vegetarian cooking, highlighting a single ingredient prepared two ways. Nandita Iyer’s latest book is The Great Indian Thali—Seasonal Vegetarian Wholesomeness (Roli Books). She posts @saffrontrail on X and Instagram.
