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Nestled in the heart of Bangkok is Bo.lan, a restaurant founded on the principle that the best Thai cuisine should be found in Thailand. Helmed by celebrated chef-couple Duangporn ‘Bo’ Songvisava and Dylan Jones, it was awarded a Michelin star in 2019. Bo, a trailblazer, has been instrumental in elevating Thai culinary arts on the world stage. Jones, hailing from Australia, complements her vision with his profound appreciation for Thai flavors and traditions. From March 14-16, the duo will host a three-day pop-up at the luxury Thai restaurant Rim Naam, at The Oberoi, Bengaluru.
The chef-duo, both in their early 40s, say that the dream for Bo.lan, when it opened in 2009, was to create a platform for authentic Thai food. They achieved this by valuing Thai culinary heritage and wisdom while promoting artisanal producers. Proponents of biodiversity, they explain, “When you start working with endemic, indigenous, and local produce, you quickly realise how important it is to ensure the health of the soil and biosphere. We work closely with several food-producing communities and source seasonally. Mangoes are currently coming into season in Bangkok, and we are incorporating a variety called Kai Duk into our dishes.”
For the couple, championing sustainable practices was spurred by an incident in 2010 when they saw approximately 100 single-use plastic mineral water bottles left behind by about 50 guests after service. “The next day, we bought a water filter and plenty of glass bottles. From then on, steps like separating waste followed,” the chefs say. Bo.lan today has at least eight different bins in the kitchen for food waste, including compost, eggshells, clean and dirty plastic, plate waste, and lime and citrus peels for pectin.
Rather than striving for a zero-waste kitchen, Bo.lan operates on a philosophy of zero waste to landfill. “We find ways to upcycle food waste into our menu or drinks programs. Our in-house craft cola is made from spent coffee, citrus zests and herb stalks. Leftover cooked rice is dried and toasted to give a smoky flavor to the Bo.lan tea blend. The Khao Dtuu (smoked rice biscuit) also utilises leftover rice to make a delightful smoked petit four, served as part of our tasting menu,” the chefs explain.
Food waste that cannot be upcycled is turned into animal feed. Spent coconut is converted to charcoal. It is also fermented with effective microorganisms (EM) and rice bran to make probiotic pig feed. Rice and prawn shells are dried and powdered to make a feed supplement for the restaurant’s poultry farmer.
“Non-edible items like pectin from used citrus are added to natural soaps. Any remaining food waste is composted onsite to use in our approximately 50-square-meter biodynamic garden, and the excess compost is shared with our producers and farmers,” the duo explain.
Several non-food items are upcycled as well. Used vacuum bags are cleaned and ironed together to form a thicker fabric, which is then sewn to make various products like book covers, aprons, or larger bags to share with our farmers.
“We also reduce our waste by saying no. We work closely with our producers and have set up a swap system for produce and thermal boxes to reduce single-use waste,” Bo and Jones add.
The couple believes industrial food systems have corrupted palates and destroyed biodiversity. And so, to appreciate any cuisine, one has to look beyond top-five-dishes lists and explore and celebrate regional differences. Clearing some misconceptions about Thai food, they say, “Chopsticks are only used when eating a single bowl of noodles. Thai food can truly be enjoyed only when you have a salad, relish, stir-fry, curry and soup with rice. They don't need to be served piping hot. As long as the rice is hot, the remaining dishes are typically served at room temperature.”
Given the duo's attention to sustainability and local sourcing, the question arises of how they ensure their pop-ups reflect this approach. “It's a challenge. People expect the Bo.lan menu, and we are hoping to explore new products and producers. We have to treat it with respect for local customs and eating habits, while also adhering to authentic Thai cuisine. We expect our partners in the pop-up to support us in finding sustainable producers locally, while we also bring a few key ingredients with us.” Discussions are currently underway with The Oberoi, Bengaluru, team on the use of local mango ginger and working with a local pork farmer.
They have not tweaked dishes to suit local palates. “We will bring Thai food as it ought to be served. People can expect bold, vibrant flavors, contrasting textures, and chili. If you come with an open mind, we believe you’ll walk away with a new appreciation for the cuisine,” they assure.
Bo was born and raised in Bangkok. She shares her love for cooking and good food with her parents. Surrounded by a family deeply connected with culture and gastronomy, Bo began to value food as a medium to create and deliver happiness. Jones was born in Canberra, Australia, beginning his culinary career in the city. He moved to Melbourne in 2001 to immerse himself in the larger gastronomic world. He fell in love with Thai food when he worked at Nahm in London, under chef David Thompson from 2003-2008. Nahm is the world’s first Thai restaurant to receive a Michelin star and London’s first restaurant for the cuisine. It was at Nahm that Jones met Bo, where she was working from 2005-2008. From eating companions, they became life partners.
Outside of the kitchen, they love to travel and experience new cultures and cuisines, which inspire them with ways to elevate Thai food. Each has their favorite Thai comfort food: for Bo, it's a noodle soup and for Jones, the phat grapow (holy basil and chili stir-fry) or any chili relish with rice.
Ruth DSouza Prabhu is a features journalist based in Bengaluru.
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