A vegetarian-friendly guide to Phuket
Beyond beaches and bars, the annual Jay festival that typically falls in October, transforms the island into a spectacle of faith, fire, and plant-based culinary creativity
Phuket brings to mind turquoise waters, golden sand, beach bars and endless crowds of sun-seekers. But a visit during the ninth lunar month takes you to a completely different Thai island.
Streets usually packed with tuk-tuks and souvenir stalls are chock-a-block with ritual processions. White-clad devotees walk barefoot across fire, while spikes pierce the cheeks of spirit mediums in scenes that astonish. Everywhere, yellow-and-red flags flutter above steaming cauldrons and sizzling woks—signs that the island has turned vegetarian.
The Phuket Vegetarian Festival, also known as the Nine Emperor Gods Festival, is one of Southeast Asia’s most intense and spiritual events. For nine days (20-29 October in 2025), Phuket’s Chinese-Thai community observes a Taoist tradition centred on purification of the body, spirit, and community.
The festival also celebrates “jay cuisine", a uniquely Thai vegetarian style that avoids meat, seafood, dairy, garlic, and onions. Instead, ingredients like tofu, fresh vegetables, and herbs are used to create bold, flavour-packed dishes.
The roots of the festival date back to the 19th century, when a travelling Chinese opera troupe fell ill in Phuket. They adopted a strict vegetarian diet to honour the gods and soon recovered. Locals embraced the ritual, seeing it as a way to ensure protection, health, and prosperity. Over the years, the festival has grown into a lively event that attracts both faithful devotees and curious travellers.
In Sacred Tensions: Modernity and Religious Transformation in Thailand, anthropologist Peter A. Jackson writes that the festival showcases the lasting influence of Chinese-Thai communities in southern Thailand, where Taoist rituals have merged with local traditions.
Food writer Leela Punyaratabandhu, author of Bangkok: Recipes and Stories from the Heart of Thailand, points out that jay cuisine illustrates how spiritual discipline can spark culinary creativity, turning restraint “into innovation rather than limitation".
“Food becomes a tool of discipline," says executive chef Ian John Thomason of Anantara Mai Khao Villas. “The festival shows how delicious food can be without onion, garlic, meat, or fish sauce. It inspires people to rethink what ‘vegetarian’ means—not just here in Phuket, but across Thailand."
Across Phuket Town, yellow flags mark stalls selling stir-fried greens, mock meats, tofu, and mushroom-based dishes. Soy, mushrooms, and gluten take centre stage, elbowing out the non-vegetarian food the island is famed for.
“You think you know Thai food," Chef Thomason says, “but during the festival, you taste another side, completely plant-based yet still bursting with flavour. It changes the perception that Thai food must include seafood or meat curries."
A streetside vendor on Ranong Road explains that jay food isn’t about missing out, but is about finding new tastes. “We don’t use fish sauce, but soy and mushroom give depth. Chili and basil bring heat and freshness. You don’t even notice the meat is gone."
Chef Thomason also draws a parallel with India, one that is impossible to miss. “There are strong similarities with Jain cuisine. Both avoid onion and garlic for spiritual reasons. Dishes likesabudana khichdi,jeera aloo, orlauki chana dal would fit perfectly here." His words are a reminder that food cultures, even though they may be separated by oceans, share common roots in ritual and belief.
Must-eats at the Phuket Vegetarian Festival
Crispy mock duck with plum sauce: Golden-brown soy-based “duck" with a sweet and tangy plum glaze; perfect for those craving meaty textures without meat.
Stir-fried morning glory: A Thai classic reinvented for jay eating: water spinach cooked with soy, chili, and garlic-free seasonings for a fresh, crunchy bite.
Tofu larb: Minced tofu mixed with lime, chili, and herbs; a zesty, protein-packed twist on the traditional spicy meat salad.
Steamed dumplings with mushroom filling: Soft, cloudy parcels filled with earthy mushrooms and soy, served with a chili-soy dipping sauce.
Banana fritters: Kluay tod, sweet, golden-brown fritters made from ripe bananas, lightly fried and dusted with sesame or sugar, are a festival favourite.
Teja Lele writes on travel and lifestyle.
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