It was 2-3 hours into my bus journey from Tokyo to Takayama when I opened my eyes and looked out of the window. The landscape had changed. The tall buildings of the city were nowhere to be seen and instead the bus was slowly driving past hills packed with alpine cedar, the trees covered in fresh snow. I could see snowflakes floating in the air before settling on the branches. For the next couple of hours, the bus drove past alpine lakes, thin streams, tunnels and snow-covered hills. In five and a half hours, we were away from the chaos of the city and in the lap of the Japanese Alps.
Takayama is a quiet, preserved city in the Hida region of the Gifu Prefecture. During the Edo period (1601-1868, the period under the rule of Tokugawa Shogunate), Takayama was a major trade centre and had a thriving merchant community because of its rich timber resources. Takayama translates to “tall mountain”, and at 3,190 metres, Mount Hotakadake is the highest point in the region. The Miyagawa river flows through the heart of Takayama, and the town is alive with bustling markets and shopping streets around it. It is breathtaking throughout the year—covered in snow during winters, cherry blossoms in spring, and trees brushed with colour through summer and autumn.
WHAT TO DO
Takayama hosts two asaichis or traditional markets that operate daily from morning till noon: Miyagawa Market on the banks of the river, and the Jinya-mae market in front of Takayama Jinya, an old government office now converted into a museum. They are 100 years old and are one of the country’s three major morning markets. Every day, local producers, farmers and artisans set up shops selling fresh vegetables and fruits, sticky rice, traditional foods like akakabu-zuke or pickled red turnip, woodwork artefacts and souvenirs like sarubobo or traditional Japanese faceless dolls. There is plenty to eat from the stalls selling snacks such as grilled meat skewers and rice balls, takoyaki or octopus-stuffed fried balls and tamaten, a fluffy sweet made with eggs and sake.
After a stroll in the market, head to Sanmachi Suji; the old town on the eastern side of Miyagawa river is a narrow street lined with old merchant houses from the Edo period defined by their dark timber frames and tiled roofs. The narrow houses functioned as residences as well as business centres. Most of these houses have now been turned into shops selling souvenirs. The street also houses sake breweries—Funasaka is one of the popular ones in the area, and Hirata Brewery offers a 40-minute guided tour for Japanese yen 4,000 (around ₹2,300) per person. One can also purchase the in-house sake from the shop fronts.
The Takayama Museum of History and Art is located a short walk from the historical street. The entry is free and it showcases the rich heritage of the region, including handpainted shoji screens or room dividers and traditional Hina dolls ornamental dolls set-up on the step altar, part of an annual doll celebration that happens in February and March. One section of the museum is dedicated to different kinds of lamps used in different establishments along with documents showcasing the economics and trade of candle making. Takayama has a centuries-old history of making candles with plant-based wax. Being a mountain town, the city has a number of onsens (public baths) that offer natural hot springs, and are worth visiting if you are interested in experiencing Japan’s public bath culture.
The city is also perfect for aimless wandering. Just meander through the town along the Hida river; stand on the vibrant red Nakabashi bridge to soak in the river view; walk up the hill for a clear view of the snow-clad mountains.
WHERE TO EAT
Takayama is famous for its Hida beef that comes from black-haired Japanese cattle raised in Gifu Prefecture. Restaurants all across the town serve the tender and buttery Hida beef as sushi, on skewers or added to ramen or udon. One way to try Hida beef is through the street food. In the area around the old town, there are multiple mom-and-pop shops that sell beef cutlets and croquettes, grilled beef on skewers, beef sushi and gyuman or steamed buns stuffed with minced beef.
If you want to taste the beef in a more familiar and comfort food format, head to Center 4 Hamburgers, a small resto-bar located at the back of an old building. They make only a handful of Hida beef burgers for lunch and dinner that sell out really fast, but their menu has other local beef burgers too.
While at the Miyagawa market, visit the Andersen bakery doling out fresh, hot croissants in plain, chocolate or filled with red bean. Takayama ramen also known as Chuka soba is another local speciality here. The name literally translates to Chinese noodles, an early-20th century term for traditional ramen (ramen came to Japan from China during the Meiji period). It has a soy-based chicken bone broth with thin curly noodles and bonito flakes; try it at Menya Shirakawa and Tsuzumi Soba. For locally made soba and udon, head to Hida near the Takayama Nohi Bus Station as they have both hot as well as cold soba. Try the one with an assortment of tempura to taste the seasonal vegetables.
If you enjoy café hopping, head to Coffee Don for breakfast. It has been around since 1951, and is famous for their cream puff, a delicate puff pastry with custard filling, cheesecake, and sandwiches. For an afternoon high tea, go to Bagpipe. They serve coffee in pretty China cups and have a variety of delicate cakes on the menu. Try the strawberry shortcake and dark chocolate cake. Fukyuan is a tea house set inside an old kimono shop, serving classic Japanese desserts like Warabi Mochi with ice cream, crepes and parfaits.
WHERE TO STAY
Takayama is a historic town with many ryokans or inns that offer stay as well as food and usually have a natural spring attached to them. However, since I was on a budget, I opted for a shared homestay, a traditional home with tatami mats and futons to sleep on.
Takayama is a perfect getaway from Tokyo especially if you have limited days in Japan and not enough budget for Shinkansen (the high-speed bullet train costs between ¥12,000 and 18,000 for a one-way journey). A bus journey will take you five and a half hours, will cost ¥8,000-8,500 one way and the views on the way are worth the ride.
Shirin Mehrotra is a Delhi-based food writer and researcher.