My one rule about Scotch is you drink it the way you like it

One challenge in Simon Brooking’s line of work is to cater to those who walk up to him during a whisky festival and say, “Give me the oldest you’ve got.” “They think the older it is, the better. That’s not necessarily true,” says Brooking, Beam Suntory’s master Scotch ambassador.

Brooking has been introducing global audiences to whisky through his tastings for more than two decades. At Beam Suntory, he is involved with brands like Laphroaig, The Ardmore, Bowmore and Auchentoshan.

We are meeting him in Delhi on a March evening. Dressed in a Scottish kilt, he says it is important to learn the steps to drinking whisky and finding the right flavour. “It’s about looking at whisky not too preciously,” he says, holding a bottle of The Ardmore. “Enjoy it with friends, family. Having a glass of whisky is a shared experience in Scotland,” he says. Edited excerpts from an interview:

What does a master Scotch ambassador do?

Advocacy is a big part of the spirits industry. It’s more difficult for master distillers to get away from the distilleries. They need a voice. I have been doing this for over 22 years. Beam Suntory is looking to the Indian market because of the rise of the whisky category here. There’s a great opportunity for The Ardmore Legacy. It’s a great whisky for connoisseurs but also a great whisky to introduce people to the category. I also represent Laphroaig—that’s a polarizing whisky. We want people to have a good first experience and that’s my job. People are intimidated by Scotch because they think there are a lot of rules. My one rule about Scotch is you drink it the way you like it.

How crucial is the water used in the whisky?

Every distillery has its own water source that we get from the rain. If you arrive in Scotland and it’s raining, that’s a good thing. That’s just whisky waiting to be made. During summer, we have the “silent season” where the water table is not high enough or the ambient temperature of the water is too hot. We do not have an infinite amount of water. That highlights the delicate nature of whisky production. People think these are large factories. At Laphroaig, the total operational staff is 17 people. At Ardmore, it’s 22. It’s about handcrafted, artisanal spirit.

What makes a good single malt?

It’s a combination of things: for example, the location of the distillery. The Laphroaig distillery is located on the sea, so you are getting an intense influence of the sea air. It’s also the elevation. The barrels react differently in terms of the barometric pressure. When it comes to the grain, what we are looking for in barley is the alcohol yield. It’s not about flavour necessarily. A tonne of grains should yield about 440 litres of spirit. The wood and casks are very important. Bourbon barrels highlight the spirit character.

What potential do you see for single malts in India?

I see something similar to what’s happening in the US with the bourbon. But there is regionality in these whiskies. Initially, you don’t see it but as they continue to grow, you start seeing what makes them unique, whether it be a Paul John or an Amrut. They chose those locations for specific reasons, and, eventually, I think, the regionality of the spirit becomes a talking point for the story. I would also mention beer-microbreweries. We have seen the world over that there is a progression from beer to whisky. What is single-malt Scotch but distilled beer without the hops? So there’s a familiarity of flavour in there as well as price point.

What do you think are some of the common myths about whisky?

The biggest misconception is that all whisky is Scotch. Scotch is a specific category. It’s about a region. When you understand the region, it’s cold and damp and rainy. That’s why we drink the whisky but it doesn’t have to be cold and damp for you, particularly with the climate in India. I know that climate varies here but enjoying a good single malt highball is a refreshing way to enjoy it when the weather gets warmer. You want a good, high carbonated soda because it releases flavours in the whiskies. Go out there and experiment. And, talk to your bartender.