Saturday Feeling: The restaurant wars, Rushdie's new book, ‘Dil Se’ back in theatres, and other stories to read

Liberalisation in the 1990s has transformed the way we eat too—it gave chefs access to ingredients, education and influences and now bistros and cafes populate “where to eat” lists that would earlier have been stuffed with hotel coffee shops and restaurants

Shalini Umachandran
Published15 Nov 2025, 07:00 AM IST
Hotel kitchens remain the best training ground for young chefs wanting to learn the ropes and understand processes.
Hotel kitchens remain the best training ground for young chefs wanting to learn the ropes and understand processes.(File photo)

“There are,” wrote Julian Barnes with the certainty born of experience in The Pendant in the Kitchen, “certain dishes always best eaten in restaurants, however tempting the cookbook version appears.” As a Barnes fan, I have taken his advice to heart and cook as little and as rarely as possible for myself. I’m one of those “evolving consumers” that restaurant industry reports gleefully describe as responsible for “India’s dining boom”, a phenomenon of the past 15 years.

In India, as Camellia Panjabi explains in her new book Vegetables: The Indian Way, eating out is a relatively new practice, and five-star hotels began upgrading their menus only in the 1970s as the government encouraged them to attract tourists and earn forex. That was also the era of licenses and permits, which meant only the chains had pockets deep enough to buy the kind of ingredients fine dining demanded. Naturally, hotel kitchens became the training ground for young chefs and even today, they remain the best place to learn the ropes and understand process. But process alone isn’t enough for a great meal. Cooking isn’t magic but it certainly is more than following an SOP.

It’s taken about 30 years but the opening up of the economy in the 1990s has transformed the way we eat too—it gave chefs access to ingredients, education and influences. Standalone restaurants, bistros and cafes now populate “where to eat” lists that would earlier have been stuffed with hotel coffee shops and ‘grills’. As independent chefs experiment with flavours and ingredients, have hotel restaurants fallen behind? Or are upscale standalone restaurants merely standing on the shoulders of the giants that luxury hotels are? Hotel restaurants are trying to innovate with bar takeovers, pop-ups, chef collaborations and revamped menus, but is it enough? Those are the questions we try to answer in Lounge this week.

A story to bookmark is our rewatching of Dil Se to mark Shah Rukh’s 60th birthday and grappling with the new questions it raises nearly three decades later. We have an interview with Madhav Agasti, who has dressed some of Bollywood’s most memorable villains and the country’s most iconic politicians. We also review Salman Rushdie’s new book, The Eleventh Hour, and take a tour of the Capital’s newest south Indian restaurants (yes, they’re all standalones).

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The print issue of Lounge dated 15 November 2025,

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Booker Prize winner ‘Flesh’ is inviting yet challenging

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As AI transforms work, women have more to lose

AI can free us from tedious work but if we’re not careful, it can deepen divides, writes Feon Ang, managing director (Asia Pacific) at LinkedIn. In theory, AI should expand opportunity, but in reality, women are standing closer to the edge. In India, 80% of women are in roles in technology, retail, finance and media that could be augmented or disrupted by AI, compared to 75% of men. Conversely, eight in ten HR leaders in India say soft skills are a top hiring priority—which is an opportunity for women. AI will determine much of the “what" in tomorrow’s work. But the “who" is still ours to decide. An inclusive workforce is about ensuring women are leading, influencing, and designing what comes next.

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On a pintxo bar crawl in San Sebastián

It seems simple: a single salt-cured anchovy, a pickled olive, and a bright green chili threaded onto a toothpick. But this tiny, briny powerhouse is rewrites the rules of eating in San Sebastián, Spain. The only way to truly experience it is to dive into the frantic, elbow-to-elbow chaos of a pintxo crawl (txikiteo). Pintxos (pronounced peen-chose) are small bites, that can range from simple tuna and pickled pepper to perfectly seared foie gras on apple compote. It’s the precision of a fine dining dish, served on a stick. Lounge goes on a pintxo crawl in San Sebastián, starting at the Old Town’s local favourites and ending at a sports bar.

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