Kaza to Dhakuri: India's most scenic winter road trips to do till March

The village of Rakchham carpeted in snow in Kinnaur, Himachal Pradesh. (Rishad Saam Mehta)
The village of Rakchham carpeted in snow in Kinnaur, Himachal Pradesh. (Rishad Saam Mehta)

Summary

If you want a winter adventure away from the selfie crowd, here are five offbeat destinations that are covered in white till early March

Snowfall is a much-awaited occurrence in India, so much so that the first whiff of snow is followed by posts on WhatsApp groups and social media, and hordes rush from the plains to the Himalaya.

Shimla, Manali and their environs become a heaving jumble of cars sliding on ice and fashionably but unsuitably dressed influencers making reels, making any trip to see snow a rowdy affair. If you want to truly enjoy the winter with snow and solitude, don’t rush where everyone is just with the intent to frenetically send photos to everyone in December. Instead, plan your trip for the middle or end of January and pick a place from this list. At these locations, you may or may not experience snowfall, but snow on the ground is a certainty till the middle of March.

 

KINNAUR, HIMACHAL PRADESH

TEMPERATURE TO EXPECT: 2°C TO -12°C

National Highway 5 stretches from Shimla to Khab and roughly follows the route of the erstwhile Hindustan-Tibet caravan track along the Sutlej River. When snow falls in the region, it accumulates at Kufri, Fagu and Narkanda, the high points of this road, and this is where the hordes head. You should, however, head further to Karcham, a town 200km from Shimla. From here, turn off NH5 on to the road to Sangla (47km from Karcham). A good base is Banjara Camp and Retreat adjoining Batseri village, 8km beyond Sangla, on the banks of the Baspa River. It is usually draped in white from January onwards. Be sure to visit Batseri village and check out Shri Badri Narayan temple, constructed of local stone and carved wood.

About 10km from Banjara Retreat, heading into the valley alongside the river on the right, is the Rakchham village. The valley widens here into snow-filled fields and meadows bisected by the Baspa. A further 10km into the valley is the village of Chitkul, where the road terminates. The India-Tibet border is 30km from here. Chitkul is also snowbound, and the drive from Rakchham to Chitkul is stunningly scenic.

Also read: The warmest places to enjoy snow in Himachal Pradesh

SPITI, HIMACHAL PRADESH

TEMPERATURE TO EXPECT: -12°C TO -28°C

Be well prepared because Spiti is where you go for a hardcore winter experience. A winter road trip to Kaza is meant for drivers with a lot of snow and ice driving experience and for passengers who can handle the kind of cold that will chill the bones. The road to Kaza, the district headquarters of Spiti, carries on along NH5 from Karcham to Khab (85km) and from there to Kaza on NH505 (140km).

The Dhankar gompa covered in snow.
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The Dhankar gompa covered in snow. (Rishad Saam Mehta)

The latter highway is often snowbound, but is cleared regularly. It is, however, a high road that even when cleared can have a few centimetres of snow and sections with deceptive black ice. Kaza, which is brown and stark in summer, turns into a white wonderland from January to April, complete with frozen rivers and waterfalls. One of the most spectacular sights is the hilltop perched Key Gompa draped with snow.

On the white mountainsides, Himalayan Tahr can sometimes be spotted and the very elusive snow leopard, too. Be sure to drive to the village of Langza (16km from Kaza) to see its iconic Buddha statue. Try a snow trek with a local guide, and visit the monasteries, including Key and Dhankar gompas. Once again, head to Spiti only if you’re looking for an extreme winter and high-adrenaline winter road trip.

Also read: Taking a ‘shortcut’ to Zanskar

DHAKURI, UTTARAKHAND

TEMPERATURE TO EXPECT: 10°C TO 0°C

The gateway to two of the most beautiful treks in the Kumaon—Pindari and Sunderdhunga—Dhakuri is way off the beaten track. The closest town is Bageshwar, in the eastern Kumaon region of Uttarakhand and about 450km from Delhi. From Bageshwar it is a scenic drive past fields of green, sometimes peppered with mustard blooms. At the village of Saung (35km), there is a somewhat motorable dirt track to Loharkhet which is a further 5km away.

Loharkhet is the traditional trail head for the trek to the Pindari Glacier, a popular trek between May and October, but during the winter months of January to March, most of the trail is under snow. The first way point is Dhakuri, 9km by foot through the hills from Loharkhet, but since that route is snowbound, it can be approached via a 35km motorable road from Loharkhet to Kharkiya. From the latter, it is a two-hour walk to Dhakuri. In Bageshwar, hire a guide and mules to carry luggage for the section to be covered on foot.

Hire mules to carry luggage on the two-hour trek from Kharkiya to Dhakuri.
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Hire mules to carry luggage on the two-hour trek from Kharkiya to Dhakuri. (Rishad Saam Mehta)

The walk is very scenic and cultivated steppes give way to a thick forest of oak, pine and horse chestnut as the foot trail climbs higher. This trail will almost certainly be snow covered. The old PWD Bungalow affords fabulous views of the Pindari Glacier on a clear day. There is also a basic KMVN Guesthouse for an overnight stay.

While at Dhakuri, go for a guided walk through the forested area which has a lot of wildlife and if you’re lucky, you could see leopard pugmarks. There is no electricity or running water so enjoy being disconnected and going analogue for a day or two.

DOODHPATRI, KASHMIR

TEMPERATURE TO EXPECT: 5°C TO -5°C

Doodhpatri in Kashmir is best enjoyed as a day trip from Srinagar.
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Doodhpatri in Kashmir is best enjoyed as a day trip from Srinagar. (Rishad Saam Mehta)

Kashmir is a popular destination during winter, especially its capital city of Srinagar and the hill station of Gulmarg. Gulmarg is pretty no doubt, but it is often packed to capacity during the winter months, but that is not the case with Doodhpatri. Meaning “valley of milk", thanks to the milky appearance of the river flowing through the valley, this quaint hill station is situated 42km to the southwest of Srinagar. Snowfall is regular in Kashmir, and the undulating environs of Doodhpatri are often draped with the brilliant white of fresh snow. Doodhpatri is a best enjoyed as a day trip from Srinagar. The things to do here include a walk in the meadow among the Deodhars; pony rides for kids; a trek to a hilltop for a view of the valley; savouring roti and namkeen chai at a roadside shack—and the most fun—sledging on homemade sledges knocked together by the locals.

ZULUK, SIKKIM

TEMPERATURE TO EXPECT: 6°C TO -4°C

This little village sits at 10,000ft and is situated in the lower Himalaya in eastern Sikkim. It takes 3 hours to drive the 93km from Gangtok, so make it a day trip. It sees a lot of snowfall and can at times be inaccessible for a few days during November to March. The road goes around the Nathula Nathang Valley Natural Reserve. Keep in mind that Zuluk is an emerging tourist destination and local information tends to be more reliable than what is found online. A PAP (Protected Area Permit) is required to visit Zuluk and these can be obtained from Gangtok if you provide copies of a passport or voter ID card and passport-sized photos.

Nestled amid a vast wilderness, this idyllic hamlet boasts some of the most pristine forests in the region. These forests are teeming with wildlife, including deer, wild dogs, majestic Himalayan bears, and the very elusive red panda. Occasionally, tigers have also been spotted. The forests are home to lots of birdlife and these include, blood pheasant, Himalayan monal, Kalij pheasant and the snow pheasant. About 14km from Zuluk is the Thambi Viewpoint to catch a glimpse of the towering snowcapped Khangchendzonga range.

Rishad Saam Mehta is an independent journalist and travel writer based in Mumbai.

Also read: The best cold weather drives in the US

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