How Banarasi weaves are becoming part of daily wear

The age-old Banarasi weaves have always been among the most cherished in India's textile landscape. Now, homegrown designers are infusing newness into the weave to make it more accessible and a part of daily wear.

The recently unveiled Ekaya Banaras x 431-88 by Shweta Kapur collaboration, for instance, has presented a contemporary and playful depiction of the textile, offering co-ord sets, blazers, kurtas and pre-draped saris.

Talking about the collection campaign, Palak Shah, chief executive and founder of Ekaya Banaras, said, "The campaign showcases a beautiful day in the scenic Varanasi, with saris flaunting their beauty and versatility against some of the most picturesque backdrops of Kashi."

Also read: Jayanti Reddy on giving Banarasi weaves a modern touch

It's also a reminder of how important the Banarasi sari is to the country's design and fashion vocabulary. “Our partnership is a example of how traditional fabrics are being updated for today’s fashion,” says Kapur. "By combining old techniques with modern designs, we’re making Banarasi textiles more versatile and easy to wear. The renewed attention at India Couture Week highlights this fresh approach, bringing Banarasi fabrics into the spotlight with innovative presentations." 

Kapur is referring to Amit Aggarwal's Antevorta collection at the couture week, which reimagined the Banarasi textile using hand-embroidered tessellations and elevated techniques. 

Hyderabad-based designer Jayanti Reddy also showcased a section in her runway presentation dedicated to Banarasi saris, with each styled with an of-the-moment spin to present the spirit of India modern.

Reddy has been working with the Banarasi weave for years now. "Apart from sticking to the traditional silhouettes and saris in Banarasi textile, we’ve added contemporary twists to make sure the end product goes with the brand aesthetic. For example, styling saris with belts and corsets, making kaftans, jumpsuits and peplums with brocade fabrics," she says.

What makes the textile stand apart is that it allows designers to experiment in several ways. Sagrika Rai, the founder of Warp ‘n Weft brand that also experiments with Banarasi, explains: “Envisioning the play of techniques decides the technicality of the loom and the yarn denier. Different designs demand the play of single or multiple colours to be conceived on multi-shaft pit-looms. The yarns are meticulously degummed, dyed, and then used in warping, to create hand-woven patterned textiles.”

In recent years, Khushi Shah, the creative director of Shanti Banaras, has integrated modern motifs into her designs. The brand's latest campaigns have featured animal prints like tigers and lions. “Our recent Lion campaign showcased an innovative amalgamation of lions woven into a single sari, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics,” says Shah. “These efforts aim to keep the sari relevant and attractive to a younger audience, encouraging them to embrace and wear Banarasi saris. We need to ensure that India continues to desire Banarasi saris since it's an important part of our textile history.”

Manish Mishra is a Mumbai-based writer and content creator.

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