Bollywood and India inspire me: French designer Mossi Traoré
The French fashion designer Mossi Traoré on nurturing students with couture skills, his love for Bollywood and India, and why fashion needs to try to be sustainable
Mossi Traoré, the famous French fashion designer, believes in the idea of “everyday couture". Each of his ready-to-wear creations, whether a blouse or a dress, come sublimated with couture detailing, be it the draping, the embroidery or the fabric.
It's an idea that the designer, who launched his Mossi label in 2017, is promoting through his fashion school, Les Ateliers d’Alix, as well. Traoré opened the school in 2015 as a way to empower the underprivileged, enabling students to master rarefied haute couture skills. It's located in Hautes-Noues, an impoverished Parisian suburb where Traoré grew up.
He was recently in India as part of the Ashoka University’s Lodha Genius Programme, an initiative that brings global changemakers to the campus to inspire young minds.
Also read: How to elevate your office look with the necktie
In an interview with Lounge, Traoré talks about how India inspires his work, following eco-friendly practices while designing and the future of fashion. Edited excerpts:
At the Parisian school Mod'Art International, you learnt how to make clothes with an Indian seamstress and an African maker. How did the experience shape?
These experiences have been very formative and have been part of my apprenticeship. They have reinforced my determination and my choice to be a designer open to the world and to the diversity of cultures. India and Africa are among the cultures that are very dear to my heart.
In 2015, you founded your own school, Les Ateliers d'Alix, a name that pays homage to French couturier Madame Grès…
Madame Grès and Yohji Yamamoto are my two greatest sources of inspiration in fashion. Madame Grès made me love couture excellence. Fashion is an art, and Madame Grès is its mirror. Rigour, passion, the quest for eternal perfection—that's what Madame Grès inspires in me.
You launched your own eponymous brand Mossi, in 2017. Do you see fashion as an applied art form?
Art is a tree with many branches, and I've grabbed the fashion one while having fun with the others. My work revolves around four words: fashion, art, crafts and the world.
Your school signed a partnership with Chanel last year. Would you consider it a key milestone?
Yes, this is a very important step, because it shows today that one of the biggest haute couture houses was sensitive to the quality of our training, but above all to the technical skills of our students to meet their needs and those of the industry.
You won the Pierre Bergé Prize in 2020, and you presented your collection as an artistic performance with dancers, one of your biggest inspirations…
I love movement, which translates into many artistic currents and forms, including dance, which is one of my favorite artistic mediums.
Which artists inspire you the most?
Korean artist Lee Bul is my fountain of inspiration. I'm also fond of the Korean artist Lee Bae for his world and his artistic expression. Calligrapher Hassan Massoudy and his art of movement. The textile sculptor Simone Pheulpin, the talented Ibrahim Ballo fascinate me. And above all, Bollywood actors.
Has India ever inspired your moodboard?
India has always inspired me and will always inspire me.
Your advice to young designers?
Not to be afraid to be curious, and to encourage collaborations that unite people around values they can relate to themselves.
How challenging is it for a young creative to start a label in today’s challenging times?
The context is not the most favourable: competition is fierce and the sector is less dynamic. Without substantial resources, it's very difficult to survive in this industry. However, the fashion sector has its doubts, and needs to reinvent itself in certain areas—and that's an excellent opportunity for the new generation to come up with new ideas.
You’ve always rooted for social justice and sustainability through your work…
I believe that fashion can contribute to providing solutions to make our world a better place. I want to embody fashion that has a positive social impact on the public and on local areas. Two great social entrepreneurs, Ali Benat and Leila Janah, who are of Indian origin, have confirmed me on this path.
Can fashion ever be sustainable?
It must try to be.
Manish Mishra is a Delhi-based writer and content creator.
Also read: Why nude dressing is trending on the red carpet
topics
