
If there is one fabric that is inseparable from India’s freedom movement, it is khadi. Championed by Mahatma Gandhi as the “livery of freedom”, the handspun cloth became a symbol of economic self-reliance and resistance in the early 20th century. In the years following Independence, however, Khadi's austere image saw it being driven into a funk – worn mainly by politicians or activists or gathering dust in dated emporiums.
A reinvention, if one can call it that, came about when young Indian fashion designers chose to experiment with it, adapting their creative designs on to this simple handspun and handwoven cloth. Today, Khadi (cotton and silk) has been cut and tailored into contemporary silhouettes like skirts, jackets, pants, skirts and co-ord sets.
As the country marked Republic Day last week, Lounge looks at how this humble fabric continues to evolve and make an enduring statement.
This multicoloured patchwork top brings together eri silk, linen katrans and khadi in a relaxed silhouette. The mix of textures and fabrics lends the piece a contemporary, layered feel. Available on Urvashikaur.com; ₹17,500.
A great example of Khadi’s versatility, this white skirt from label Chola has been designed in a deconstructed silhouette with an elasticated waistband and belt. The clean yet offbeat silhouette lends the handspun fabric a modern, rebellious attitude. Available on Elahe.in; Price on request.
Handmade from cotton-Khadi, label Kardo’s “Ronen” shirt is individually embroidered with motifs using a chain stitch technique. The detailed embroidery against Khadi lends artisanal depth to this classic silhouette. Available on Mrporter.com; ₹20,682.
Grabbing eyeballs wouldn't be a struggle in this mustard-hued short Khadi silk floral jacket by label Yavi. Stitched in a relaxed fit, it features full sleeves, intricate floral embellishments and a block-printed lining. Pair it with a matching yellow skirt or contrast pants to make some occasion-ready fashion statement. Available on Yavi-eshop.com; ₹60,600.
These wide-leg men’s pants from every fashionista's current fave, Kartik Research, are crafted from Khadi cotton denim and finished with hand-embroidered pleats. The result is an easy, contemporary silhouette with discreet craft detailing. Available on Kartikresearch.com; ₹31,000.
This blush-toned handwoven Khadi silk sari is decorated with hand applique of blooming florals and intricate embroidery details. Soft in palette yet rich in detail, the sari highlights the elegance and versatility of khadi silk. Available on Anavila.com; ₹1.70 lakh.
Made from hand-spun cotton developed on a traditional loom in eastern India, this rust-hued dress from Akaaro allows the texture of the fabric to take centre stage. Its clean lines keep the focus firmly on material and craft. Available on Akaaro.com; ₹18,964.
Label Metaphor Racha’s quilted bedspread is made by putting together Khadi cotton scraps, sari borders, and fabric ends. At a time where sustainability and eco-friendliness are priorities, this one-of-a-kind creation highlights the underlying beauty and importance of material reuse. Available on Metaphorracha.com; ₹8,900.
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