Chanel's Métiers d'Arts pre-fall 2025 collection, presented last month, turned out to be the bellwether of the pre-fall season.
Drawing inspiration from a Coromandel screen at Gabrielle Chanel's historic Paris apartment, the collection was an artistic celebration of the past and present in China, combining archival influences with modern designs.
Another pre-fall highlight that reflected a similar mood was Balmain's which included wrapped mini-skirts and jackets crafted from gold brocade, military outerwear and cocoon coats. This was followed by Kim Jones' Dior Men outing, which blurred the lines between formal and informal, adding casual touches to formal pieces and elevating the informal separates into chicer alternatives.
Here are some of the key pre-fall highlights:
Coat dresses and trench dresses had quite a moment in 2024 (be it Zendaya's checkered Louis Vuitton coat dress or the burgundy trench). However, the tailored, knee-length classic with military touches isn't going out soon. Ralph Lauren's Pre-Fall look book featured a double breasted coat worn as a dress with a dress shirt and a necktie. Chanel's Métiers d'Arts show opened with a statement-making long coat dress cut in tweed, satin and velvet.
Designers love a good contrast clashing diverse pieces in a look to spark off both intrigue and desirability. In the stunningly shot Jil Sander lookbook, for instance, a shell pink long draped dress was layered with tough leather outerwear. Also worth mentioning is an organdy dress trimmed with ruffles layered with a tuxedo coat. There were also a lot of sheen inducing textiles at Jil Sander, from a coated canvas, which was crafted into a supersized trench coat and a three-piece suit cut out of a buttery brown leather.
Blame Paul Mescal and Jonathan Bailey for it but the itsy-bitsy men's shorts are still stealing the spotlight. Gucci's Sabato De Sarno explored the idea of everyday basics with a touch of luxe and a playful whimsy seen in a pair of micro shorts he showcased with matching shirts and a tie.
At Valentino, Alessandro Michele paired a red velvet field jacket with a pair of denim bermuda shorts. Balmain's menswear, too, was replete with tailored short shorts worn with chore jackets, Baroque print shirts and T-shirts. On the other hand, Louis Vuitton proposed shorts as a versatile piece which could be styled with a formal striped shirt, a logo beaded jumper and also a Cuban collared holiday shirt.
At Valentino, Alessandro Michele drew inspiration from the mod 1960s, sending out short shift dresses and skirt suits peppered with houndstooth and cherry motifs. A leopard trench was a nod to the founder, Garavani's jet set era and kaftans embroidered with crystals and cinched at the waist with butterfly applique belts, evoked Michele's signature magpie aesthetic.
The 1970s bohemia was palpable at Gucci as well, seen across the headscarves styled with granny chic faux fur coats, winter knits in Icelandic prints and tailoring executed in heritage fabrics. Moreover, the vintage iteration of the brand's signature Blondie and Jackie bags set the mood for hippie mania. At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello offered a fresh update to the house archival piece, the Saharienne jacket, presenting it with round shoulders and crafting it in both black and chestnut leather.
The brand's menswear, too, played out its founder Yves' personal style reminiscent of the sixties and seventies, from the smoking jacket to the double breasted suit worn with pussy bow collar shirts.
At Chanel, the pleating on the dresses recalled the shapes of a fan and a Lesage tweed jacket came accented with velvet knots. A dainty clutch was vaguely inspired by the Chinese fortune cookie.
Also worth mentioning is a pair of boots, which featured clouds synonymous with Chinese artworks. Louis Vuitton menswear laid emphasis on rattan, which was seen in both woven and pressed formats—from a sun visor to slides to a backpack. A noir chambray jacket featured a raffia detailing and a bandana detail jacket was splattered with sequins.
Missoni, otherwise known for its zigzaggy knits, featured an evening wear section comprising form-flattering slip dresses in soft striped lurex.
Manish Mishra is a Delhi-based writer and content creator.
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