In times of conflict, fashion becomes a form of resilience

We’ve all read the stories of how women turn to fashion in times of crisis. During World War II in the UK under the shadow of the Blitz, people still dressed for evenings out, holding on to elegance as a way of refusing to surrender normal life. You could say the mantra was: keep calm, wear red lipstick and carry on.

More recently, when the Russian invasion of Ukraine began, the global fashion industry turned its gaze to Ukraine, celebrating its crafts and heritage, while designers from the region found themselves in the spotlight.

Living through a moment of conflict myself and doing so as a fashion commentator, has shifted my understanding of clothing’s social and cultural role. Of course, life in Dubai remains far more stable than in places directly affected by the war. The city continues to function with its usual sense of order, even as the region sits at the centre of escalating geopolitical tensions. Weeks into the crisis, the sound of alerts has become a strange kind of new normal. There is caution in the air, and an awareness that things can change quickly.

It has made me think about dressing and identity in a way I never have before. I’ve realized that getting dressed can be both centreing and grounding. As Dubai-based designer Reema Ameer, who is Lebanese-Syrian, puts it, “It’s less about control or normalcy and more about refusing to feel defeated. Dressing well becomes a way of protecting your spirit.”

Cashmere, jeans, and heels have become her uniform over the past few weeks. “I’ve been rediscovering my favourite jewellery. These small, deliberate acts lift my mood and help me hold on to a sense of self,” she says. The ritual of dressing brings comfort; slipping into those heels or fastening a statement cuff can deliver a much-needed moment of lightness.

And then there are the quiet habits of beauty rituals. I booked myself an unplanned facial—something I rarely do mid-week. It felt indulgent, but also necessary. Interestingly, if you speak to those in the beauty business, especially those offering at-home services, they will tell you that demand has not slowed.

Indian-origin, Dubai-based entrepreneur Rosemin Opgenhaffen, who launched her brand Rosemin’s Beauty just a few weeks before the conflict, says demand has remained high. “Our logistics have continued to operate smoothly, ensuring customers receive orders without disruption. What’s been particularly interesting to see is that the desire to feel put together has not diminished, if anything, it has intensified,” she says. She launched with a radiance corrector and concealer duo, a product she feels is more relevant now. “People still want to look fresh and feel like themselves even if everything else feels uncertain,” she says.

The mother-to-be is still going into the office every day, though travel plans have been disrupted owing to flight changes. “It’s given me more opportunity to spend time on myself, whether that’s a facial or simply slowing down,” she adds.

Ameer points out that while clients are still ordering, there is more interest in bespoke and occasion wear rather than everyday ready-to-wear. “It feels optimistic,” she says. “People are not giving up, they are still planning for moments, for something joyful ahead.” Her signature cashmere knits, which she describes as feeling like “a permanent hug”, have seen renewed interest.

Perhaps that says it all: comfort, but considered. There is also a noticeable shift in how people dress. It’s smart—no tracksuits, no pyjamas, none of the old covid-era dressing rules—yet still driven by ease.

Opgenhaffen says, “I find myself returning to pieces that are understated yet polished.” Dresses from British contemporary brand ME+EM and India’s D’Ascoli, especially its kaftans, have become her go-to pieces.

Ameer also reflects on her own cultural context. “Women in my family, Lebanese and Syrian, have lived through conflict for generations, and were always immaculately dressed. They didn’t dress for the occasion; they dressed for themselves. It’s as if clothing becomes its own kind of armour.”

Until you have lived through a moment like this, you don’t fully understand that instinct. And I hope that when this passes, I remember the importance of being put together because, if I’m honest, I had perhaps become a little too relaxed about it before. It’s a reminder that dressing up is not just frivolity, but something far more instinctive and necessary.

And while no one is hosting large celebrations, we are still meeting—just more quietly. A dinner at a friend’s home, a local restaurant, smaller gatherings. The start of the conflict coincided with Ramadan, and even if the larger suhoors were cancelled, families still came together. At one dinner I attended, someone suggested a dress code for the next evening, just to make it feel a little more special. To an outsider, that may sound frivolous, but in the moment, it adds something.

It may also explain the shift in dressing between the Greatest Generation who lived through World War II and the Baby Boomers who came after. The former were known for a certain polish and discipline in how they presented themselves, while the latter embraced a more relaxed, less formal approach to dressing. Neither is wrong. Each reflects a sensibility shaped by circumstance and, perhaps, the quiet imprint of lived experience on personal style.

Personally, I have always gravitated towards regional labels, particularly from India, but also from Dubai (where I live), and England (where I was born and brought up). Recently though, I find myself researching designers from West Asia more than ever. I haven’t actually shopped yet—it doesn’t quite feel like the moment—but if I did, it would likely be from here.

Labels such as Mrs Keepa, Dima Ayad and Bouguessa, all based in Dubai Design District, feel especially resonant. There is something about supporting designers rooted in this city that carries a different kind of meaning right now.

And in case you’re wondering what I’m wearing, it follows the same comfort-but-considered formula. Cotton knits with trousers, jeans with a silk shirt, a cotton maxi dress belted at the waist. Nothing overthought, but nothing careless either.

I’ve also had my nails done, and for the first time chose a soft pink shade. There is something about it that feels calm, almost grounding, yet still distinctly feminine. A small detail, perhaps, but right now, those are the things that matter.

In moments like these, dressing isn’t about being seen; it’s about holding yourself together.

Dress Sense is a monthly column on the clothes we wear every day.

Sujata Assomull is a journalist, author and mindful fashion advocate.