Dress Sense

After years of excess, fashion returns to dressing with intent

Dressing for the photograph has overtaken dressing for the experience but the pendulum seems to be swinging back again

Sujata Assomull
Published8 Feb 2026, 11:31 AM IST
From Anita Dongre's Rewild 2026 show
From Anita Dongre's Rewild 2026 show

Could 2026 be the year fashion finally regains its balance? It will soon be six years since covid-19 upended the world and permanently altered the way we live—and dress. During the pandemic, clothing became almost entirely functional. Comfort reigned supreme. Tracksuits, pyjamas and slip dresses morphed into everyday uniforms, with even fashion personalities like Anna Wintour appearing in pared-back knitwear paired with jogger pants.

When the world opened up again, the pendulum swung sharply in the opposite direction. “Revenge dressing” became the go-to fashion mantra. After months of confinement, dressing up became an act of release—almost cathartic in its excess. “Post-pandemic, overdressing definitely became the norm. We had all been holding back for so long,” recalls Shweta Kapur, founder and creative director of the label 431-88. “Living in comfortable clothes meant that whenever there was an opportunity to step out, you wanted to dress well, look good, put on makeup and really make an effort.”

That desire extended beyond clothes. Big Indian weddings returned bigger and louder, culminating most visibly in the Ambani-Merchant wedding celebrations, which reset expectations of scale, spectacle and global attention. At the same time, India’s growing presence at the Met Gala filtered into popular consciousness. Every occasion, be it birthdays, anniversaries, even brand launches, began to feel like a red-carpet moment.

Fuelled by social media, standing out became the goal and excess the default. Dressing for the photograph overtook dressing for the experience. Being over the top was no longer an exception—it became the norm.

Now, it seems things are changing. There seems to be a new way of understanding dressing—one that places intent at its centre.

As stylist, costume designer and bridal personal shopper Aastha Sharma says: “I’ve always loved drama. I’ve lived for big statement gowns, theatrical silhouettes and unapologetic glamour on the red carpet. For years, that’s been my language. I’ve believed in the power of an entrance, in clothes that make your heart beat faster and demand attention. But I do feel something is changing.”

It’s not that we’ve lost our appetite for dressing up, it’s that it is evolving into a new sensibility. “Now what excites me is a different kind of drama,” Sharma continues. “Not the obvious kind, but the quiet confidence of balance and simplicity. Over-the-top has started to feel boring. I’m still drawn to impact, but I want it to feel intentional.”

At a time when intent has become a cultural buzzword, dressing with intent feels like a natural next step after years of excess. It means knowing what you’re wearing and why—choosing with intention rather than reaction, and allowing clothes to support how you want to move through the day. It’s the difference between dressing for the photograph and dressing for the experience; between being seen and simply feeling like yourself.

It is against this backdrop that Kapur launched her first bridal line towards the end of 2025 with a caption on her Instagram page reading “Less ornament. More intent” and showed a contemporary take on the lehnga. Created for a bride looking for ease rather than opulence, the collection features beautifully draped and tailored pieces that highlight understated embroidery in shades of white and muted metallics.

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View full Image
From Shweta Kapur's 431-88 bridal collection

Kapur says, “My bridal collection came from a sense of restraint, largely because I personally felt a fatigue with overdressing—something I experienced very strongly when I was shopping for my own wedding.”

While she acknowledges that this approach to bridalwear may appeal to a niche audience, she saw a gap in the market for something truer to the essentials-led aesthetic her label has long been known for.

She notes that many brides today are marrying later in life and not just in their 20s. They are working women who understand the value of money and, just as importantly, want to enjoy their weddings.

“With the economy and changing priorities, people would rather spend on experiences, a great holiday, a great meal, time with loved ones than on spectacle purely for social media. That mindset is slowly shifting,” she says.

It’s not that Kapur’s clothes don’t make a statement. They do, but it’s a more muted one. Cuts and fabrics are carefully chosen to give the feeling of a special occasion, with embroidery and beading added intelligently rather than excessively. There is still drama here, but it’s the kind that reveals itself in movement, proportion and presence not something that announces itself immediately.

This take on bridalwear is for a niche elevated consumer, but the sensibility is beginning to trickle into special occasion dressing more broadly. And since shifts in fashion often begin at the edges, perhaps 2026 will be the year we see more of this measured, intentional approach take hold.

As Sharma says: “It’s not about becoming minimal or playing it safe. It’s about dressing in a way that makes it feel personal without losing the magic. Drama isn’t going anywhere—it’s just evolving with the times we live in.”

Hopefully that is where fashion is heading next, not away from impact, but towards intention.

Dress Sense is a monthly column on the clothes we wear every day.

Sujata Assomull is a journalist, author and mindful fashion advocate.

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About the Author

Sujata Assomull is a fashion journalist, editor, and commentator with over 25 years' experience specialising in the intersection of global trends and ...Read More

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