Actor Zendaya and beauty entrepreneur Hailey Bieber recently skipped mascara and false lashes for their red-carpet appearances, prompting the internet to dub the look “ghost lashes”. TikTok micro-trends come and go, but these barely-there lashes raise a question: do your lashes really need a detox?
The beauty industry rolls out new mascaras every month, with formulations promising longer, fuller, curled lashes that can survive everything from crying sessions to long workdays. What those glossy packages don’t tell you is that the real trouble may begin when it’s time to take the mascara off.
“Daily mascara, extensions and aggressive removal can compromise lash hair integrity, follicle density and periocular skin elasticity. Long-wear waterproof mascaras, in particular, often use volatile solvents such as isododecane and hydrophobic polymers that can dry out the hair shaft, reducing its flexibility. The rigid coating can make lashes more prone to mechanical breakage from blinking or pressure,” says Dr Kiran Sethi, skin and wellness expert at Isya Aesthetics, Delhi.
But it may be less about the formula and more about what happens when you take it off. Rubbing and tugging during removal can damage the delicate skin around the eyes, causing friction-induced hyperpigmentation and early elastosis, says Dr Sethi. The repeated pulling can also put stress on the hair bulb, potentially triggering traction alopecia along the lash line or prematurely pushing lashes into the telogen, or shedding, phase, she warns.
“Daily mascara use does not inherently cause follicle atrophy, but incomplete removal leads to anterior blepharitis, clogging of the Meibomian glands, and secondary follicular inflammation, which shortens the growth (anagen) cycle,” says the skin expert.
It’s not just long-wear mascara. Lash glue and frequent, heavy lash extensions can also take a toll.
“Extensions add weight to the natural lash, increasing mechanical strain on the hair follicle. Adhesive vapours, including cyanoacrylates, and formaldehyde released during the application process can cause contact dermatitis and blepharitis, and may contribute to follicle miniaturisation,” says Dr Sethi.
Spot the red flags
Early signs of lash damage include increased brittleness and shedding, shorter average lash length and loss of the natural curl. Focal gaps, meanwhile, are more likely to indicate mechanical extraction or localised follicular injury—often from pulling at extensions or severe blepharitis—rather than normal physiological shedding.
Sudden, diffuse lash loss warrants medical attention and should not be ignored. Dr Sethi recommends stopping eye make up if this occurs, particularly if it is accompanied by eyebrow loss, patches of scalp hair loss, eyelid redness, scaling, pain or purulent discharge. A lack of lash regrowth eight to 12 weeks after stopping eye make up is another reason to see a doctor.
“Repeated traction on the hair papilla can lead to scarring alopecia, or fibrosis of the follicle, making lash loss irreversible over time,” says Dr Sethi. Acute mechanical extraction caused by pulling or picking at lashes can also damage the follicular epithelium, increasing the risk of permanent scarring.
But eye make up is not always the culprit. Lash and eyebrow loss can also be linked to underlying health conditions, including thyroid dysfunction, autoimmune disorders such as alopecia areata and frontal fibrosing alopecia, and dermatological conditions such as seborrheic dermatitis and psoriasis. Infectious conditions, including Demodex-related blepharitis, can also cause lash fallout. Nutritional deficiencies, particularly iron deficiency and anaemia, may play a role, while conditions such as telogen effluvium and trichotillomania can also contribute to hair loss.
Lashes can fully regenerate as long as the follicle’s stem-cell niche remains intact. However, chronic inflammation or repeated traction that causes follicular fibrosis can result in partial or permanent loss of regrowth.
The right care for your lashes
Avoid waterproof formulations unless strictly necessary to minimise mechanical stress, suggests Dr Sethi. Nightly removal of mascara is also important, as stiffened lashes can become more prone to fracture against the pillow during sleep.
For removal, she recommends using a bi-phasic or oil-based cleanser, with ingredients such as squalane or jojoba oil. Soak a cotton pad, press it gently against the closed eye for 20 to 30 seconds to dissolve the mascara polymers, then sweep downwards softly. “Do not rub side-to-side.”
If you wear extensions or undergo other lash treatments, give your natural lashes a break. Dr Sethi recommends resting them for two to four weeks after every three to four months of continuous extension wear. “A full lash growth cycle takes six to 12 weeks. Allow at least eight weeks for structural regeneration after notable damage,” she says.
And perhaps the simplest reset is also the most fashionable one. Going “ghost” and skipping mascara every now and then can give your natural lashes a break while proving that barely-there beauty can still make a statement.