Lounge
Why fashion loves influencers
Summary
Content creators help offer visibility at light speed, but it might be journalists who still ask the critical questions
The recently concluded India Couture Week made one thing clear: fashion can't fashion without social media influencers. While a handful of journalists jostled for the ‘frow’—as the front row is affectionately known in the industry—social media creators were up there in outfits by the designer showing their work, comfortably filling the seats of the all-important frow.
It's not a new phenomenon. The dynamics of a fashion show's seating has been shifting along with the appetite for social media. Those who command more followers, particularly on Instagram—since fashion and beauty are like a visual art—get as much real estate on the front row as key opinion leaders such as fashion editors, clients and film stars, conveying their importance to the designer.
What's new is the pervasiveness. No launch of jewellery, perfume, clothes, cars, watches, restaurants, even agarbatti, is complete without the presence of influencers. In some cases, they get a better seat at the table than legacy media. Even before a reporter types a word, the content creator, often paid by the brand in cash or kind, has shared the five Ws (who, what, when, where, why) of the launch with their followers, besides the personal excitement of being invited. But what is the ROI (return on investment)?
Also read: India Couture Week: Fashion goes light, just a little
"Asking whether they bring in sales is like asking if a newspaper article helps a brand get more business. The role of both is to raise awareness, only that in one case it happens within minutes and the other takes at least a day (referring to newspaper stories)," says Pankhuri Harikrishnan, founder of Fetch Consulting, who has worked in influencer and digital marketing for close to 20 years. The hope is that the visibility translates to business. "The media universe has expanded, and influencers bring what we call social press."
The data reflects this as well. A recent case study shared by online platform Business of Fashion, drawing results from data and insights company Launchmetrics, stated that media created the most conversations around brands in 2023, followed by influencers, celebrities and partners—in that order. But when compared to the previous year, the share of media had declined (48.2% in 2023 from 56.8% in 2022), while influencers increased (24.6% versus 18.6%).
“Influencers are the new heroes as they embody relatability," says Archana Jain, chief executive of PR Pundit Havas Red. She's been in the PR industry for over three decades. “Their content rivals that of high-end fashion magazines, and their engagement with audiences sets them apart."
A small but indicative survey of 500 online shoppers in India, released earlier this month by online marketplace vendor Capterra, showed the growing impact of social media ads on consumers. Seventy per cent of respondents had purchased one or more products after seeing a social media ad in the past year, the survey found. What's more, 69% of the respondents looked up information about a product "after seeing a social media ad, and 65% followed a brand, indicating that social media ads generate significant engagement even if they don't always result in immediate purchases."
Also read: Fashion industry’s biggest contradiction: sustainable clothes
Just using a social media influencer for a promotion or as a frow guest is not enough, though. "They can be important for a brand's growth, but that depends on who they are choosing to collaborate with," says designer Amit Aggarwal, who presented a collection at India Couture Week. While his strong collection didn't include a celebrity showstopper, his frow had 15 mediapersons, 10 influencers and five actors, including Abhay Deol, Fatima Sana Sheikh and Sanjana Sanghi.
When asked if influencers help bring more sales, he says there are certain personalities who live the "luxurious life and mingle with the right set of people, who could translate into buyers. But we just don't look at the number of followers or direct sales. The person also has to align with the vision of the brand. You need influencers to bring certain kind of visibility, but then you need journalists to have a critical conversation, especially in the Indian fashion world which is still developing."
Unlike the West, many homegrown influencers are not vocal about issues in the industry, such as quality and direction of design, plagiarism, cultural appropriation, climate footprint and welfare of karigars. "And thank god for that," says Fetch's Harikrishnan. "I'm glad they are not giving opinions. They are good on styling, on raising awareness about a brand. For opinions, we still look for people who have been trained to do the job, like journalists."
That, it seems, is a sweet deal for brands. Grab eyeballs through influencers and validation from good, old publications. In the end, it's the survival of the smartest.
