From David Koma to Nensi Dojaka to JW Anderson, the recently concluded London Fashion Week saw several designers showcase sexy garments inspired by 90s grunge.
Designer Halpern, the sultan of sequins, who presented a collaborative project with Barbie, sent out an array of multi-hued ensembles with kaleidoscopic shine. Anderson, on the other hand, showcased a range of garments that were a commentary on how we live more in the digital world than in the real world. His unique metallic bubble dress, for instance, reflected faces of the show audience.
Dojaka, who had writer and activist Emily Ratajkowski as her showstopper, extrapolated lace in a collection of sexy, bodycon slip dresses. What's more, she added metallic touches by accenting chiffon pieces with silver lurex textures and faint pink shine.
Sexiness aside, designers at London Fashion Week were united by a sense of solidarity for their beloved Her Majesty. Here are some of the key trends that emerged at the London Fashion Week.
Cutouts galore
Nensi Dojaka has been honing her lingerie skills for many seasons now and in this outing, she created sensual, come-hither cutout shapes with faint boning technique. Her bra-cups, which came with cutout hearts (a leitmotif of the collection), were definitely the highpoints. David Koma, who referenced early photographs of American marine biologist and oceanographer Sylvia Earle and her Tektite II crew members, who spent two weeks underwater in 1970, experimented with silk mesh. Most of the looks had cutouts and mesh detailing reminiscent of fisherman's knots.
Always exploring female anatomy, Christopher Kane has a knack of serving proper with perverse, sweetness with seduction. For SS 23, his pailletted dresses were slashed above the breasts with scalpel-sharp precision and presented with vinyl body-brace straps, almost resembling a rib cage.
Erogenous dressing
Dojaka's sublime, diaphanous chiffon evening that which came with visually arresting trains were among the most coveted looks of the fashion week. JW Anderson also presented lingerie lace-trimmed slips and draped T-shirt dresses exposing the hip and the torso areas. Trust Christopher Kane to transform a granny-ish cardigan by injecting it with S&M-inspired accents like carabiner clips. All in all, it was hard to overlook the all-pervading kinky undercurrent.
Designers' solidarity
Erdem Moralioglu, who's been one of the go-to designers for British royals including the Princess of Wales, paid his respects to the late Queen Elizabeth II with a thoughtful collection. Three of his models walked with their faces and ball gowns fully covered in black tulle. Fabulous and funereal at the same time.
Halpern's opening look too honoured the Queen, a floor-sweeping cape crafted in silk taffeta and accessorised with a headscarf. There was a minute’s silence for the Queen at the beginning of Kane’s show as well. Designer JW Anderson presented a black T-shirt printed with a commemoration of the late monarch.
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