Khadi has always been more than a fabric. During India’s freedom movement, it became a powerful symbol of self-reliance, with Mahatma Gandhi famously describing it as the “livery of freedom”. Wearing khadi was a way of rejecting imported cloth and supporting local production. But after Independence, its fashion identity became increasingly tied to austerity: the politician’s kurta, the activist’s sari, the government emporium. For several decades, khadi seemed to belong more to history than to the contemporary wardrobe.
Fashion, however, has a habit of revisiting what it once considered unfashionable. Over the past few decades, Indian designers have steadily dismantled khadi’s image, treating it as a material to experiment with rather than a uniform to preserve. Its inherent irregularities—the slubs, variations in weave and tactile surface—have become design features. Designers have played with dyeing, layering, embroidery, draping and tailoring, turning khadi into sharply cut jackets, voluminous dresses, skirts, trousers and separates.
Cotton khadi can be crisp and structured or soft and fluid depending on how it is woven and finished, while silk khadi brings a different lustre and drape. This versatility has allowed designers to move it comfortably between everyday clothing and more elaborate occasionwear.
As the country marks Gandhi Jayanti, Lounge looks at how the humble handspun fabric has been reimagined in contemporary fashion.
COLOUR BLAST
Yavi Naomi Jacket
Grabbing eyeballs wouldn't be a struggle in this mustard-hued short Khadi silk floral jacket by label Yavi. Stitched in a relaxed fit, it features full sleeves, intricate floral embellishments and a block-printed lining. Pair it with a matching yellow skirt or contrast pants to make some occasion-ready fashion statement. Available on Yavi-eshop.com; ₹60,600.
BIRDSONG
This hand-painted cushion cover takes Jaipur’s iconic blue-and-white craft to the couch. Available on Guthali.com; ₹1,099.
SIDE EFFECT
Baggy pants with a peekaboo panel in the padiya weave of Jharkhand’s Mundas. Available on Johargram.co.in; ₹7,500.
KEEP IT EDGY
Gandhi-inspired but for 2026? These frames add a geometric edge to the iconic round style. Available on Birchposh.com; ₹8,980.
VEGGIE DELIGHT
Onion, lime, carrots and other fruits and veg—all dried, of course—embellish this cotton-silk bag. Available in stores, price on request.
SCRAPS MATTER
A classic Converse sneaker, reworked with reclaimed Khadi cotton and silk with hints of shibori and bandhani. Available on 11-11.in; ₹28,000.
IN FULL BLOOM
This Khadi silk sari features hand-appliquéd blooms and intricate embroidery. Available on Anavila.com; ₹1 lakh.
MIX & MATCH
Handmade from cotton Khadi, this shirt makes a case for mismatched prints, and the versatility of wearing them your way. Available in stores and online; ₹12,750.
LOAD UP
A basket made from water hyacinth and Khadi cotton threads. Place your magazines, or let it be a cosy place for the cat. Available on Brownliving.in; ₹1,950.